Foreign visitors in Sardinia are puzzled by two facts:
1) one of the most beautiful places on earth isn’t still completely exploited in terms of tourism, with particular reference to the Costa Verde (south-western coast) that Agata visited;
2) one of the richest Italian regions in natural resources (minerals, agriculture, water, wind) does not (or doesn’t anymore) harbor a thriving industry.
There are historical reasons why Sardinia – since the times of Ancient Rome and even before – was stripped of its resources by external cultures. Oversimplifying a little, and with notable exceptions, Sardinians have a tradition as breeders and farmers. The XIX and XX century boom of the mining industries provided an opportunity for change. Unfortunately, this didn’t last long and took an heavy toll on the environment as well as on the people. Not a farmer anymore, not a miner anymore – not much different to what happened in the coal districts in northern europe.
Currently there is heavy underemployment, there is a continuing history of migration towards continental Italy, and those who remain make their living in agriculture, commerce and tourism.
In that respect, I can’t see an actual “lack of wealth” (the most widely accepted meaning of “poverty”) because most people I know here have a way of life that I would gladly change with mine. Life here costs less.
A wonderful climate (a little hot in august, I agree…), almost everybody has a vegetable garden or has a neighbour selling zero food miles products, attitude is relaxed, there is the same range of social diversity as in the rest of Italy (Mercedes as well as Fiat, villas as well as small apartments). Some people prefer to keep the façade of their houses unplastered, and this makes an ugly sight. Decrepit or dilapidated houses are side by side with more recent or brand new houses… In short, mixed emotions, lack of urban refinements. And yes, lack of employment, migration. But as far as I can see poverty is not a defining trait of Sardinian society.
]]>My last observations: if you read Agata’s post too quick, it may seem that Sardinia has an extremely hot climate throughout the year, but this is not the case (winter and spring are cool as in all southern Europe, autumn is fresher than summer). Even in summer, most Italians from the Padan plain, including me, find the heat of Sardinia (much more dry and often mitigated by the wind) much more pleasing than the wet and suffocating summers of the Po valley.
A final note of caution: Agata is carefully describing many facets of her stay in a single small town in Sardinia. But you already got the point: Sardinia is diverse, it has been aptly defined “a small continent”, with an infinite variety of landscapes and traditions (and soon Agata will let us know something about local culture!). So, all one can do is talk about a “tile” in a much bigger “mosaic” of geography and culture. Personally, I think that even the most skilled and experienced traveller couldn’t grasp the whole big picture of Sardinia. On my side, I didn’t get it in 30+ years…
]]>Thanks,
Maria