A winter stay in Valpolicella would be incomplete without a few visits in the local restaurants. There is a lot to choose from! Even if the AirBnB house we rented is located in a small village there is a variety of places that serve a high-quality food. Italy is famous for its food and sometimes you might get lost is a variety of names. You might wonder what is the difference between ‘osteria‘, ‘trattoria‘ and ‘restaurant’ thus here is a simple explanation. Osteria The least formal of all places that offer you food in Italy. It sometimes is run by a family and offers you a place at the common table, shared with other guests. The food is always fresh, prepared from the local ingredients and often there is no menu: the owner of a waiter tells you what is served today and you choose from it. It serves wines, often produced by the owners (‘produzione propria‘), brought to the table is carafe rather than a bottle. Recently there is a new trend to make the osterie more attractive by using a modern design or hosting ‘aperitivo‘ in late afternoons. The one I visited here, in Negrar, was called Osteria del Bugiardo and it was fabulous! Trattoria Less formal than a restaurant more formal then osteria. It always serves local food but the main focus is on wines. The food is always simple, the choice is limited and the customers are in major part locals. It has been always an important place for the meetings of the residents and a common space for exchanging the ideas and gossips. Restaurant Obviously, there is a huge variety of the formality here. There are exclusive restaurants that serve a high quality, expensive food but there are also those less expensive and well connected with the area. It is true especially in Italy where many people visit a restaurant with their families, friends and colleagues. It is worth checking with the locals which restaurant is good but if you can’t do it just pass the restaurant in the evening (20:00-21:00) and judge it out of the number of cars parked in front of it. If the restaurant is not in the city centre, next to the famous touristic spots, this strategy works just fine. Especially in the countryside: good restaurants are always full of locals! Bar or pasticceria Pssst! I know that there’s a lot of people who love sweets thus I would strongly encourage you to visit bar or pasticceria in the morning. The best place to start a day in Italy is the one that bakes their sweets in situ, in their backyard. Fresh, warm sweet brioche in the morning will lift your spirit!  

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This winter is marvellous! I’m spending it in Valpolicella, a region of vineyards. Its location is special: from the west, it confines with Garda Lake and Monte Baldo, a relatively high mountain range. In the south, there is a large plateau with Verona town that is beautifully illuminated by night. The plateau expands into the south to meet the Adriatic Sea. In the east and north, further and higher mountain ranges expand. Therefore, the geology of Valpolicella makes this region very special. I was here before in a summer time thus read this post as the next episode of the same story. The house The house I’m renting through AirBnB is located high in the hills. It’s the first time in my life when I’m living at such high altitude and it changes everything! First of all, the view out of every window is breathtaking. Three different ranges in front of the house shaped in layers make a wonderful view. The highest one – Monte Baldo – is covered with snow and this is a picturesque background of the hills with vineyards. Right in front of the house, there is a large cherry grove. I can’t wait to see it flourish! The wine This is a wine region, no doubts about it. When I’m getting familiar with Valpolicella, either by car or by foot, it is covered with vineyards. The classic wine from here – Valpolicella Classico – consists grapes of five different varieties, therefore, the vineyards differ one from another. Currently, the local farmers spend sunny days on cutting the branches so the vine produces excellent grapes. Along every major and minor road, there are vineyards with large houses and wineries, where you can taste and buy the local wines. The weather As I expected, winter here is wonderful! The first three weeks of my stay here were sunny and dry. Watching the valley above and the peaks above out of my window raise my spirit. I was able to focus on brushing the final version of my book and get on with the process of publishing it. What I absolutely love about living here is the altitude that raises you above the clouds. So basically, in a small town of Negrar just 10km away there is have fog and rain while when you get up here there is a beautiful sun. You can watch the clouds from above and this looks spectacular. The running trails Last but not least, there is a variety of running trails. In fact, I was able to run regularly until yesterday, when a dog of my neighbour bit me! All in all, he only wore out my trousers but it scared me a bit. I am very happy though because of the change in running routine. Instead of a totally plain track, it is very steep here and this gives me an opportunity to practice and train alternative muscles. For the first couple of days it was really hard but after three weeks I got used to it. Feeling proud! The people Everywhere I go people are just fantastic. It is equally true for the people from Valpolicella. Not only the owner of the house is gentle and nice but also people I meet every day here. This looks like I picked up another wonderful location for winter to spend. Not only the weather is great but also the food, wine and people too. The overall experience is very positive so if you ever thought about spending winter in Valpolicella I would strongly recommend it.  

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I’m pretty sure that you’ve heard about Valpolicella at least once in your lifetime. It is the name of a zone full of gentle hills near Verona and it gave a name to the Valpolicella wine that people appreciate around the world. I am not a wine expert but since I lived in Italy I tasted a variety of white and red wines. I participated in a wine tasting before and I am probably an average wine fan: love it with whole my heart. When we left the Dolomites, we decided to expand our holiday and stay for a little bit longer in Italy. Verona and Valpolicella seemed to be just perfect. Last week, we participated in two wine tasting and here is my review, so you could pick up your own way. Valpolicella Valpolicella Classico is made from five grape varieties: Rondinella, Corvina, Corvinione, Oseleta and Molinara. For an amateur, it is pretty hard to distinguish the grapes seen on the grapevines but to the experts, this is a piece of cake. The location of Valpolicella is stunning and just perfect for wine cultivation. From the top of the hills on a sunny day, you can see the Adriatic Sea. The quality of the soil is outstanding as it is of a volcanic origin. Local microclimate brings a fresh breeze from the sea and from the nearby lake Garda. The cantina here is well ventilated which makes the drying process of grapes possible. Out of the variety of grapes grown in Valpolicella a series of red wines are produced: Valpolicella Classico, famous Amarone, sweet Recioto and Ripasso. Wine Tasting in Cantina Fratelli Vogadori Although we all prefer white wines, we could not miss the opportunity of wine tasting in Valpolicella. In a sunny afternoon, we started our tasting in a cantina called Fratelli Vogadori. We entered the building, crossed a cellar following the arrows and were seated at the table with five bottles or red wine. One of the owners was our guide. We got a list of wines that we should taste, bread with olive oil and a spittoon. One after another, the red wine filled our glasses and through the story told by one of the owners we did our best to taste vanilla, cherry, chocolate, and tobacco. Cherry was the easiest to spot. One of the wines we tasted was especially wonderful: it smelled fresh and fruity and after we tasted it, our mouths were full of vanilla. An amazing experience that involved not only our senses of taste and smell but also our memories. Our guide explained that what we sense in a wine depends on our personal experience and memories. We bought a few bottles of wine there and went back home completely satisfied. But this was not over. Next day we went to a different place and the wine tasting there was a totally different one. Wine Tasting in Tenuta Santa Maria Valverde After the first wine tasting in Valpolicella we expected a similar thing but we were completely wrong. This time, we got caught by the owners full of passion, joy and proud. We booked a wine tasting combined with lunch and arrived at noon, in a very hot day. The old buildings and well-ventilated garden welcomed us with desired fresh breeze. Ilaria and Nicola, a couple who owns the place, took us directly for a guided tour around their property. We started from a huge room dedicated to grapes drying process. All grapes, collected manually, are stored for at least 100 days from November to mid-February, depending on the weather and harvest. The room was empty but watching the wooden boxes we could imagine how hard it is to keep them safe from mold until they are ready for a fermentation process. Ilaria explained that each variety of grapes used in Valpolicella wine gives a different taste. Rondinella tastes like plums, Corvina and Corvinone like cherries, Molinara like green pepper, and Oseleta like mulberries. From the drying room, we went down to the cellar, where the smell of mold was overwhelming. Old wooden barrels and modern metal ones were laying there, working hard to produce the excellent wine. Ilaria, a charming woman who laughed a lot, explained the whole process of wine making, including all difficulties, obstacles, and unexpected events. Then, Nicola came and are told us a story of the family. His family has been making wine for the last three hundred years! The expertise in the matter is the air they breathe from the moment they were born. Fascinating. We finally got seated under the white umbrella in a tranquil green garden. The silence was only intermittent by the sound of cicada and gently running water. What a relaxing place! Nicola brought us the local cheese and sausages and the feast began. The taste of wines along with the local specialities was amazing but the final was mind blowing. To fully enjoy the last wine, Nicola brought a block of dark chocolate. It is impossible to describe how incredible it tasted. The whole experience was just fantastic! It took us more than three hours and we had to run before Ilaria showed us the grounds, which was a shame. The owners told us that we could stay with them until the evening and I think that next time I will dedicate the whole day to stay in this marvellous place. Which wine tasting to choose? These two wine tasting experiences were picked up randomly. I had no previous contact with any of these places nor asked for suggestions to any of my friends. Obviously, each of these places has their own way of showing the excellency of the Valpolicella wines. It is up to you, what you prefer. I’d say that I should probably go back to Santa Maria Valverde because of the whole experience. I think that I tasted not only the wine there but most of all, what this region and the family business is all about. I deeply appreciate the...

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This was a delightful day! Although in the evening I was very tired I had a great time. It is the middle of the summer here, in New Zealand so last Saturday I went to Waiheke. This is a popular recreational destination, not only for tourists but most of all to Aucklanders. It is easily reached by a ferry from downtown Auckland. A ride lasts about 35 minutes and a ferry goes every hour. Bike Not always, popular places are beautiful. It often happens I am disappointed with top touristic sites. But this was not the case of Waiheke. Although there was a crowd on the ferry the island is large enough to accommodate all visitors. First, I went by bike, which was a challenge itself. I’m not a great bike rider as you probably remember from my previous post on Aran Islands, but I enjoy recreational riding just like I did in Athens. Anyway, this was a different story because Auckland is very hilly city and Waiheke Island too. The great thing about this trip was that I could take my bike to a ferry for free. I was wondering why more people do not do this. After all I checked the price for bike rental on the island and 50 NZD daily rate seemed to me very expensive. But soon enough I knew why people rarely take bikes with them. Making the long story short: Waiheke Island is very hilly. I was not prepared for this! The first part of the trip – from Kingsland where I live in Auckland to harbour – was downhill but the moment I started my ride on Waiheke I thought I should get back home at once! First kilometer was uphill and I felt like my legs and lungs were burning. And it was no better further: up and down for next 9 km! Only because I was really determined I eventually reached my destination: a winery and restaurant “Wild on Waiheke”. Wine Waiheke is called the island of wine. There are as many as 25 wineries on this island and most of them offer wine tasting, restaurant, garden and a place to have your party in. I tasted few wines in ‘Wild on Waiheke’ and I can tell you this: if only for wine this trip would not worthy my effort. Now, I know this might be due to my previous experiences in Italy and my particular taste shaped by Italian wines (not luxury nor expensive but still). And I really understand people who go to Waiheke to taste wines. I do! After all, this wine was better than the one I had in Paris (shame on you!). What is really great about Waiheke and wine tasting is that you can have a very small glass with your meal for just 2 NZD. It allowed me to taste as many as 4 different ones and I did not have to spit! The more friendly version of professional wine tasting. Just for people like me and a million of Aucklanders who come here. Food and people If not wine than food! What else makes you determined enough to ride up and down for an hour? “Wild on Waiheke” provides high quality and very tasty food. Their garlic bread, salad and a variety of cheese and ham were excellent! Also, people who work there are friendly and helpful. When I arrived at noon all seats and tables were taken but they were still able to find a place for me. I had a look at ‘typical’ Kiwis having a great time. These people are chilled out beyond my imagination. They are not slobs, though. They keep their being chilled out well balanced so people who watch them do not feel embarrassed or disgusted. Kiwis chill out makes you relaxed and eager to share their state of mind. In this restaurant, I felt like being a part of a big party. Even though people did not know each other it still felt like somebody’s wedding. And let me tell you that the dress code was not wedding focused! Landscape The best part about this island is landscape. I was riding a bike and at some point I felt really exhausted but it did not prevent me from watching breathtaking views. Little bays, hidden beaches, gentle green hills, white boats on the water and blue sky over all of this was a reward for riding uphill. Just like elsewhere the middle of the summer makes a place colourful and smelly (in a good sense!). A variety of trees and flowers is delightful here and the whole island was like a big garden. New trend What I found most amusing was a popularity of this place. Yes, it is beautiful but often this is not good enough for people to come. Apart from a chill out of New Zealanders I can’t still well understand I think creating new trends works really well here. Wine has become a desirable and widespread drink recently. It is fancy to drink red wine instead of anything else. So people do. They have their favorite wines but also visiting a winery for a day became a great idea for a weekend. Waiheke would be still beautiful without wineries but for its beauty people would not come. If you are spending your summer in Auckland this is a great one-day trip. I think it is worthy to visit this island for its atmosphere, beauty and for people. I enjoyed my stay there very much and I hope to go back there soon. Travel Tip When you take a ferry don’t sit on the back lower deck. I did and after 15 minutes I was completely covered with salt and water. I looked like a wet chicken and for the whole day I had sticky hands. So make yourself comfortable inside the ferry.  

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Audrey Hepburn used to say that Paris is always a good idea. And some people might still think so even though many years has passed. I am a bit hesitant if you asked me whether I love it or hate it. I know that few days in a city like Paris is not enough to fully appreciate its particularity but this is not my first time here and I see that some things has changed and in a way I don’t like. Paris. A Home for Artists The most impressive thing about Paris for me is its rich and outstanding history. There was time when Paris was an unquestionable capital of Europe. It was trendy – if not necessary – to speak French, to dress like French and to listen to French music and to reading French books. This time has long gone but Paris still wants to impress its visitors. Paris shows off with its houses: if you look at the details of windows, balustrades, balconies or even chimneys you will understand how hard it tries to impress the tourists. Landmarks Paris has more landmarks per square meter than an average European capital. Tour Eiffel, Sacré-Cœur, Louvre, Notre-Dame to name only few world wide known touristic spots. People know it by heart and they come here to see it with their own eyes. It makes Paris one of the most visited places in Europe and in the world. Bringing all problems typical for touristic destinations along. Art Is Everywhere The number of paintings, sculptures and drawings made by the most famous artists is impressive. Count also the museum focused on art or houses with small inscriptions: “The famous X lived here”. Even graveyards of Paris turned into a touristic attraction because artists were so in love with Paris that most of them decided to be buried here. So, yes, Paris is a city of art and I am pretty sure that this is a real paradise for art lovers. Poor Quality For High Price Tourists in Paris get scammed! Yes, they do and yes I did! In only few days spent here I paid unbelivible high price for drinks and food. Now, I know that tourists’ destinations tend to be expensive and logically is Paris is one of the busiest touristic places on earth than you cannot expect nothing else. But what I do mind is the poor quality of the products you get for exceptionally high price. If you think about famous French wines don’t come to Paris and don’t drink it here. I have no doubts that you can’t taste excellent wine for a reduced price in every cafe of restaurant. But it is hard to believe that wine for 6 EUR a glass is such a poor quality! Seriously? Paris, you could do better than this! I would simply like to enter a cafe and have a decent (not outstanding!) glass of wine. Just decent. Especially when France is SO proud of its wines. It is hard to understand why this country serves such a low quality stuff to people who come here to enjoy and appreciate it! Habits Maybe this is my fault and lack of preparations to this part of my around the world journey but I find it very difficult to understand the habits of the locals. First, they seemed to get scammed in cafes and restaurants they share with tourists. There are many of French people paying exaggerated amounts of money for poor quality stuff. Then, it was hard to find a place to have a breakfast on Sunday morning. Either there were gloomy and empty bars opened with no locals inside, or crowded pastries with fresh bread with long queues in front. So I realized that it is not their habit to have their Sunday breakfast in bars. Fair enough. I bought a fresh brioche and ate it and it was delicious. I though it will be similar on Monday but – surprise! surprise!-  no, it wasn’t. My mistake. Some bakeries opened on Sunday are closed on Mondays and those open ones serves brioches baked the previous day. Paris, I do like you but some things I really can’t figure out. So I think I will just need more time here. Travel Tip Here is my advice: if you want to try the French cuisine and don’t go bankrupt try this place. Auberge de la Reine Blanche. It is located on the island of St. Louis (30 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île) and they serve very good food with decent wine. You can eat entree and first dish for less than 30 EUR. We went there in 4 and we shared a bottle of very good white Chardonnay. Highly recommended!   

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I had a fabulous time at Cantina TerraCruda! Seriously! Even though I was tasting wines at 9:30 a.m. and felt dizzy after 8th glass! OK, let’s start from the beginning: I asked my hosts from Marche Holiday about a good local winery and they told me about TerraCruda in Fratterosa. And they were right about this choice, by all means! Location Fratterosa is beautiful! A very small village, in the middle of vineyards and gentle hills  seems a perfect place for any business. The view from hills takes your breath away. In May vegetation is lush and the green is so fresh that its saturation is hard to believe. Landscape around this place is a dream of every tourist who visits Italy. Obviously, only people you will meet here are the locals and Italians spending their holiday in Marche which makes it even more beautiful. And definitely authentic. Not only wines After a while of contemplating the surrounding I entered the building of a tasting room. What struck me from the first moment was an outstanding interior design. The building is a recently constructed structure with two glass walls at each end which makes the tasting experience overwhelming. A nice young lady welcomed me with a wide smile and a fascinating story to tell. The company TerraCruda is a family business which is nothing special in the area. However, their main focus has been and still is furniture design. Seriously. They design, produce and sell furnitures. Luxury ones. Very pretty. Apart their love to modern furnitures they were owners of a 10 ha vinery and were producing wine at small scale. About 10 years ago they bought another 10 ha of land and planted it with traditional and new varieties of grapes. At the same time they were upgrading the production process and as a result they produce and sell excellent wine today. Wines In oder to stand out of crowd TerraCruda focused their effort on quality. It was explained to me that to get an outstanding quality they do all work manually and they wash grapes more carefully than others. This is the reason why their rose wine is so exquisite – they keep it with peel much longer than others, and the wine is not spoiled because of clearness of the grapes used. Recently, their wines won few important awards and the brand has started to be widely recognized. White, red, rose, spumante and visciola are produced in the winery. A very special local history is related to the last one: visciola. Its particular sweet cherry taste derives from keeping it with cherries for a while. And – as they say – famous duke Federico from Urbino liked it very much. I tasted it and I must say it is delicious. A variety of wines is impressive here: each kind has few types depending on age and production process. You have youngest and most basic wines that are suitable for everyday meals, up to high class, well structured ones. Tasting This was my first wine tasting ever. At first I felt intimidated with the knowledge of a sommelier. Fortunately, she was nice and patient with me and she explained me everything in few simple steps. I must say, that wines tasted one after another are very different. I knew I should spill it away after every glass tasted but…I didn’t. I thought that if I’m not driving that day than it is quite OK if I sip some of them. Perhaps this is a reason why I arrived at the point when I could not process any information shared by sommelier. Full saturation with knowledge shared. So at the end I bought a large box of wines I tasted and started my way back home. It looks like I need more practice if I want to do it regularly… Events TerraCruda is an example of not only a marvelous family business and being visionary about combining few strands under one brand. They are also excellent in terms of sustaining ties with local community and modern events organization. All cutlery used in their tasting room comes from a local producer of terracotta Daniele Giombi. His pots, amphorae and plates are just a perfect final touch of this exquisite interior design. Just after my visit in vineyard they were organizing an ‘open day’ to the local people so they could taste and appreciate their wines. A concert and few other attractions were in a programme so during my stay in a tasting room all employers were running around fixing last minute stuff. What I would love to participate one day is their Cene in vigna. Dinner in a vineyard under the stars in a warm and gentle air should be fun! I hope to come back to Cantina TerreCrude one day and participate it one day! Disclosure: I was provided with a discount when I bought few bottles of wine in Cantina for which I am truly grateful. Have you ever thought about visiting Italy? Here is an alternative way on how to visit Italy and get really close to the Italian way of life. I created a project ‘I love Ferrara‘ so you could join me and experience how beautiful and tasty Ferrara is. If you wish to immerse in Italy book your holiday now!  

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