So disappointing! The weather in Paris crushed my plans. And I wanted to do so many things related to my favorite writer Samuel Beckett! You know the story of Beckett and Little Museum of Dublin so you are not surprised I wanted to visit all places related to his long residence in Paris. I wanted to have a coffee in his favorite place, look at the neighborhood where he lived and finally visit his grave on Montparnasse cemetery. It didn’t work. When I saw heavy and dark clouds this morning I thought this plan might not be easy to proceed with. Just when I met a photographer and blogger Lanora I went straight to the Montparnasse graveyard. When I entered it was already drizzling but not excessively so I thought I still have a while to find the grave. I met an old French man just at the front of a small map and tried to get informed about topography of the place. He did not speak French but was so dear! I like this sort of old man that remind me my grandfather. They wear weird hats and have a lot of time. He would take my hand and lead me to a place I could recognize from a map. Then he dissapeared leaving me there but I was sure I could have handled from there. Well, I couldn’t. I went through the sector where the grave of Samuel Beckett should be located and haven’t found it. In a meantime the drizzle turned into a serious rain. But I didn’t give up. I run back to the map, checked again and turned back to the sector 12 looking at all graves one after another. After half an hour or rain and when I got soaked I thought that’s enough. And went back to the subway. Funny thing: I didn’t feel down. I remember what Beckett used to say: Nothing is funnier than unhappiness, I grant you that. Yes, yes, it’s the most comical thing in the world. I looked at the Montparnasse cemetery and it was so beautiful! Just in the middle of this busy city you have a peaceful place with big trees and lovely little figures guarding the graves of most famous people. The trees were yellow and the alleys were covered with yellow carpet. It was raining so all graves were wet and shiny. This was a very picturesque place. So I went back to the hotel quite comfort. Peace and silence are things we probably need most.  

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Audrey Hepburn used to say that Paris is always a good idea. And some people might still think so even though many years has passed. I am a bit hesitant if you asked me whether I love it or hate it. I know that few days in a city like Paris is not enough to fully appreciate its particularity but this is not my first time here and I see that some things has changed and in a way I don’t like. Paris. A Home for Artists The most impressive thing about Paris for me is its rich and outstanding history. There was time when Paris was an unquestionable capital of Europe. It was trendy – if not necessary – to speak French, to dress like French and to listen to French music and to reading French books. This time has long gone but Paris still wants to impress its visitors. Paris shows off with its houses: if you look at the details of windows, balustrades, balconies or even chimneys you will understand how hard it tries to impress the tourists. Landmarks Paris has more landmarks per square meter than an average European capital. Tour Eiffel, Sacré-Cœur, Louvre, Notre-Dame to name only few world wide known touristic spots. People know it by heart and they come here to see it with their own eyes. It makes Paris one of the most visited places in Europe and in the world. Bringing all problems typical for touristic destinations along. Art Is Everywhere The number of paintings, sculptures and drawings made by the most famous artists is impressive. Count also the museum focused on art or houses with small inscriptions: “The famous X lived here”. Even graveyards of Paris turned into a touristic attraction because artists were so in love with Paris that most of them decided to be buried here. So, yes, Paris is a city of art and I am pretty sure that this is a real paradise for art lovers. Poor Quality For High Price Tourists in Paris get scammed! Yes, they do and yes I did! In only few days spent here I paid unbelivible high price for drinks and food. Now, I know that tourists’ destinations tend to be expensive and logically is Paris is one of the busiest touristic places on earth than you cannot expect nothing else. But what I do mind is the poor quality of the products you get for exceptionally high price. If you think about famous French wines don’t come to Paris and don’t drink it here. I have no doubts that you can’t taste excellent wine for a reduced price in every cafe of restaurant. But it is hard to believe that wine for 6 EUR a glass is such a poor quality! Seriously? Paris, you could do better than this! I would simply like to enter a cafe and have a decent (not outstanding!) glass of wine. Just decent. Especially when France is SO proud of its wines. It is hard to understand why this country serves such a low quality stuff to people who come here to enjoy and appreciate it! Habits Maybe this is my fault and lack of preparations to this part of my around the world journey but I find it very difficult to understand the habits of the locals. First, they seemed to get scammed in cafes and restaurants they share with tourists. There are many of French people paying exaggerated amounts of money for poor quality stuff. Then, it was hard to find a place to have a breakfast on Sunday morning. Either there were gloomy and empty bars opened with no locals inside, or crowded pastries with fresh bread with long queues in front. So I realized that it is not their habit to have their Sunday breakfast in bars. Fair enough. I bought a fresh brioche and ate it and it was delicious. I though it will be similar on Monday but – surprise! surprise!-  no, it wasn’t. My mistake. Some bakeries opened on Sunday are closed on Mondays and those open ones serves brioches baked the previous day. Paris, I do like you but some things I really can’t figure out. So I think I will just need more time here. Travel Tip Here is my advice: if you want to try the French cuisine and don’t go bankrupt try this place. Auberge de la Reine Blanche. It is located on the island of St. Louis (30 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île) and they serve very good food with decent wine. You can eat entree and first dish for less than 30 EUR. We went there in 4 and we shared a bottle of very good white Chardonnay. Highly recommended!   

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Paris is one of the most popular touristic destinations in the world. While you find thousands of “good advises” and “must-see” spots I would like to encourage you to a lazy walk around one of the city islands: Île St-Louis. Frankly, even if Paris is not my favorite city I think I would agree with Audrey Hepburn who said: “Paris is always a good idea” I went to Paris many times and I saw it in various seasons: extremely warm when the city seams to be empty, in the rain, covered with autumn leafs. Personally, my last trip to Paris was the most memorable for me. Mainly because I saw it so many times before that I finally could get wonderfully lost. If you are in Paris Île St-Louis is highly recommended. You may even be lucky and avoid the crowd if you visit this part of the city in late afternoon. The island itself is lovely, with its tiny little streets and stylish houses, with wonderful views on the river. But what you really need to do is to visit one particular place called Cacao et Chocolat, a small chocolaterie. It is located in Rue St-Louis en l’Île  at the corner with Rue de Regrattier.  It is very easy to find: all you need to do is to walk down the main street and at certain point it is simply there. Why after so many years I still remember this place? Mostly because of the exceptional taste of hot chocolate with chilly, then because of a very cozy and friendly interior. It reminded me some old fashion cafes with wooden shelves and this beautiful containers for coffee beans, candies and other goods. Also because of a variety of smells and flavors. You get the impression that this chocolate comes from all over the world. But most of all because I visited Pairs in late October when it is already chilly. I traveled to Paris from Italy so even knowing it is much colder in Paris than in Rome I still had no warm clothes that I could take with me. So, I was freezing for most of the time. When I was drinking my chocolate I remember until today this soothing sensation of warm, first in my stomach and then gradually spreading all over my body. This was the only moment during my whole stay in Paris, that I was feeling warm. From this very moment for me Paris is a city of warm and sweetness. I don’t know if this place still exists but if it does you need to go there! Credits: Samuel Globus and brangal (flickr.com)  

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