A winter stay in Valpolicella would be incomplete without a few visits in the local restaurants. There is a lot to choose from! Even if the AirBnB house we rented is located in a small village there is a variety of places that serve a high-quality food. Italy is famous for its food and sometimes you might get lost is a variety of names. You might wonder what is the difference between ‘osteria‘, ‘trattoria‘ and ‘restaurant’ thus here is a simple explanation. Osteria The least formal of all places that offer you food in Italy. It sometimes is run by a family and offers you a place at the common table, shared with other guests. The food is always fresh, prepared from the local ingredients and often there is no menu: the owner of a waiter tells you what is served today and you choose from it. It serves wines, often produced by the owners (‘produzione propria‘), brought to the table is carafe rather than a bottle. Recently there is a new trend to make the osterie more attractive by using a modern design or hosting ‘aperitivo‘ in late afternoons. The one I visited here, in Negrar, was called Osteria del Bugiardo and it was fabulous! Trattoria Less formal than a restaurant more formal then osteria. It always serves local food but the main focus is on wines. The food is always simple, the choice is limited and the customers are in major part locals. It has been always an important place for the meetings of the residents and a common space for exchanging the ideas and gossips. Restaurant Obviously, there is a huge variety of the formality here. There are exclusive restaurants that serve a high quality, expensive food but there are also those less expensive and well connected with the area. It is true especially in Italy where many people visit a restaurant with their families, friends and colleagues. It is worth checking with the locals which restaurant is good but if you can’t do it just pass the restaurant in the evening (20:00-21:00) and judge it out of the number of cars parked in front of it. If the restaurant is not in the city centre, next to the famous touristic spots, this strategy works just fine. Especially in the countryside: good restaurants are always full of locals! Bar or pasticceria Pssst! I know that there’s a lot of people who love sweets thus I would strongly encourage you to visit bar or pasticceria in the morning. The best place to start a day in Italy is the one that bakes their sweets in situ, in their backyard. Fresh, warm sweet brioche in the morning will lift your spirit!  

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After two months spent in this wonderful Italian region, I would like to share best pictures of Puglia with you. This is not the photo album presenting all best sites in Puglia. By no means! It is, however, my personal itinerary of winter spent there and best pictures I took. I am convinced that a picture is worth a thousand words so with no further hesitation here are 15 best pictures from Puglia. Small and friendly Towns It all started in Oria a small and frienly town deep south. It is situated on a hill and has a remarkable history of the Jewish community. For me, however, the most striking thing was the legend that St. Peter walked through Oria when he was going to Rome, to die. Ancient roots of the parish in Oria. Old and picturesque Not only old stones but also old cars. Oria was all about old school views. Excuisite Architecture Everywhere you go in Puglia, sooner or later you get to a place that is an example of the baroque style. I saw the real pearls there! Top Attractions Ostuni has been known to me for a long time. I considered it a must see while in Puglia. I spent one sunny day in Ostuni but the city, although it is nice, was very touristy. I prefer less known destinations. Ostuni is worth a one day visit but there is so much more to see in Puglia! Alberobello UNESCO site Equally true was the fame of Alberobello. This UNESCO site known for its downtown full of trulli houses was somehow dissapointing. It is just too perfect! Clear, white, well kept looks like a huge tourist attraction. Don’t get me wrong. It is worth a visit. I went there twice and let me tell you this: once is enough. Welcome to Gallipoli! Gallipoli has recently gained a status of super popular tourist destination. Many of my Italian friends visited it at least once. The inflow of visitors has changed this place. Apart of downtown, the city build along the shore is new and, unfortunatelly, not so beautiful. I enjoyed one morning visit in the old part of Gallipoli. It was so beautiful! Otranto Otranto was far from Oria but even though I drove down there to enjoy one of a few places in Italy conquered once by the Turkish army. I especially enjoyed the view on totally empty at this time of the year marina. I have a dream to sail there! And, above all, at 15:00 there was literally nobody. I had a city to myself! What a luxury! Seafood in seaside towns Every single town in Puglia is so close to the coast that you can eat excuisite seafood literally everywhere. It tastes like heaven! Friendly Locals In many of the locations visited people were charming. I got friendly with the locals and it turned my stay in Puglia in a sort of extended family visit. Sea I love the sea. Especially in a cold and windy day. The view of the waves and the lighthouse is one of the most beautiful things on earth! Monopoli was stunning! I visited five times just to fully enjoy its atmosphere. Bari of Saint Nicola I had no idea how important the Basilica of St. Nicola in Bari is. A celebration of Christmas there and another visit in a crypt downstairs where relics of St. Nicola are held was a powerful experience to me. And the prayer in Russian of this old lady whispered in front of the Saint was touching. Charming downtowns Here is Monopoli again. I found it most intriguing. A truly lovely place, full of inner beauty, surprising tiny streets, excellent restaurants and the view on a rough sea. The picture perfect. Olive oil Crossing Puglia makes you think that this region is all about olive oil. I was lucky. Usually, in December, the olive harvest is long gone. This year was exceptionally good and even in late December and early January farmers were still coming to frantoio to have their olives turned into olive oil. The smell of olives was everywhere not to mention a fantastic taste. How to visit Puglia in winter. Advice I found Puglia in winter the most charming place. There were no tourists, the locals had time and interest in visitors, the quality of services and food was excellent. I personally see no reason why anyone would like to come here in summer time. Winter was just perfect! The weather was spring like with only three rainy days in more than two months! The blue sky was an everyday view and I would recommend Puglia in winter to every traveler who wants more than just sunny beaches and cheap drinks.    

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I have never been to Puglia before. Since I enjoyed the idea of spending cold Polish winter elsewhere, which became a sort of a new tradition, there was a decision to make. I picked up Puglia, the most southern part of Italy. There were many reasons to come here. The weather was one of them, and the food too. I did not know that much about Puglia before I came and stayed for a while. Therefore, there was no real anticipation nor high expectations. I also read a post about Puglia in summer by my dear friend Cathy  and it was intriguing enough to think about winter in Puglia. I’ve been living here for a month now and I am sure this was a great decision. Here is a short list of my reasons why you should visit Puglia in winter. No crowds In recent years, Puglia has become a popular holiday destination. Thousands of Italians and foreigners visit this region, mostly in the summer time, that is in June, July and August. These months turn Puglia into a frenetic zone, full of crowds and noise. Such a circumstance should not discourage you to visit this part of the world, though. Instead of coming here in the hot and crowded season, I suggest you come in winter time. There is literally nobody here! Being the only tourist in a city of Oria with 12,000 of locals is fun! No lines, no waiting for hours in a restaurant, no noise. The winter life of locals is peaceful and full of surprises. Mild climate The cold and the warmth is a relative thing. In Puglia, the temperatures are above  zero degrees, and in the middle of the sunny day the temperature is as high as +19C. In average it is between 10C and 16C.  For me, this looks like a beautiful spring time. Moreover, the sun shines most of the days and it did not rain even once! I know these temperatures are far from +40C in the summer time, and I love it! It is perfect for a walk, the blue sky makes a perfect photo background and my running routine is effortless! Due to this wonderful weather, I was able to pursue my training plan. I’m running regularly three times a week and the conditions are just perfect! It looks like I’ll be well prepared to run a half marathon in April 2016. Excellent food No doubts Puglia is famous for its excellent food. This is true for both summer and winter time. There are still fresh fruits and vegetables here and, above all, super tasty frutti di mare. Fresh clams, squids, shrimps and fishes are delivered daily to small fish stores all over the place. I was not a huge fan of frutti di mare before, but I am now! I mean, how could you not? And there is the highest quality dairy. Burrata and stracciatella di burrata are two of my favourite fresh cheeses. A simple and very cheap lunch consists of a fresh bread, a piece of cheese, cherry tomatoes, olive oil, prosciutto crudo and sweet pears. Fabulous and very healthy food! Friendly locals If you are the only tourist in town just try to imagine how sweet the locals are. They are not tired with crowds and they have enough time and curiosity to spend a while with you. I got friendly with my neighbours quite quickly, not to mention a local tradesman who comes in his Ape car with fresh fruits every morning. He rings my bell and he sometimes leaves the fruits I ordered the previous day in front of my door, if I’m out. What a service! Silence Most of all, what makes my winter in Puglia a perfect experience, is the silence. I need it to work on my book. The good news is, I have recently completed a chapter about the Cook Islands. This is a huge milestone and I have to admit that the atmosphere of Puglia helped me a lot! I hope to bring you more stories from Puglia. A visit at the hairdresser was very interesting. Living like a local is my superpower so stay tuned and come back for more.  

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I love Emilia – Romagna and I consider this region my second home. I was very happy to go there again and spend a week on visiting a variety of places related to its food and wine. Settimana di Buon Vivere – a week of good living is an annual event organized to promote Emilia – Romagna. Indeed, I think that Emilia – Romagna is the best place to learning the Italian kitchen. I had an opportunity to meet the local wine producers, cooks, restaurant owners and managers focused on the promotion of the local excellence. Here is my short review of best places to eat and drink in Emilia – Romagna, places I can recommend you to visit and taste high-quality Italian food. Pizza Gourmet – Col Basilico Nel Cuore, Forli I was sceptical when we were told we got invited to a place where gourmet pizza is served. After all, pizza is not about gourmet nor elegant cuisine at all. Col Basilico Nel Cuore was, however, a perfect place to learn that food is not only about eating but also about the mood and the people you are with. I was lucky to sit at the table with one of the co-owners. A charming man, Fabio, was eager to share the secrets of double leavening and the top quality of pasta used for the pizza. This was a good start of learning about food but later that evening I got known that Fabio not only likes poetry but his favourite author is Wisława Szymborska – a Nobel Prize winner from Poland. This was a blast! The conversation about her lasted for hours. Fabio asked me to read aloud her poems in Polish and he was listening to it as if it was pure magic. He read a few poems in Italian and we were discussing the quality of the translation. I told him a few anecdotes about the private life of Szymborska from a book I have recently read. Every fifteen minutes the new kind of pizza was brought and we tried at least five different kinds. Fabio was explaining me all about wines, both sparkling and white ones. I had an impression that the poetry was all over the place. The food was excellent! I normally have some problems with digesting a traditional pizza, but the one leavened twice was so good for my stomach! I normally find it difficult to appreciate luxury or elegant places but this pizzeria I can recommend with no hesitation. Especially if you like poetry! Wine of the highest quality – Tenuta Carbognano, Gemmano The winery we visited the other day was a totally different place. Ornella e Marco – the owners of Tenuta Carbognano – hosted us like their own relatives. Their hospitality was deeply touching. Our visit started with a long walk around their modest vineyard. They are the owners of only 3 hectares and they have started their wine adventure about 10 years ago. All of the information I got from Ornella destroyed the myths I had in my head. I thought that wine business is only for the people who inherit not only the ground and the company but also the secret knowledge. The ancient families where the knowledge and skills are passed from one generation to another. Ornella told their story of starting with sommelier course and their previous bar business as years of preparation to get their hands dirty in grapes. Walking around their vineyards was a pure pleasure. Gentle hills, autumn warmth, well-kept lines of grapes and interesting stories were wonderful. Ornella told me that the major part of the grape harvest is done manually and also the plants’ treatment throughout the year. As their vineyard is modest their business is focused on a small quantity of the best wine called superiore. Even though their business is young their wine won a few local and national competitions. The best part of our stay on their farm, where you can rent a room too, was their attitude towards their vineyard and the guests. Ornella was laughing every five minutes and her smile was a proof that if you do business with joy and engagement it brings you not only good money but most of all fulfilment and happiness. I had a wonderful stay there, a delicious lunch and obviously excellent wine. Cooking classes – Al Vecchio Convento, Portico di Romagna I had a few cooking classes in my life. In fact, I run my own cooking classes in Ferrara, thus, I didn’t expect anything outstanding out of our visit in Vecchio Convento in Portico di Romagna. This was, however, one of the best events of the whole week of Buon Vivere. First of all, the town Portico di Romagna was charming. It was very small and located on a hill which always makes the tiny little streets even more delightful. There was a beautiful old bridge and also a few elements of modern art by the local artist Il Castello Errante. Further, we got a fantastic cooking class by Massimiliano, who happens to be an experienced and professional cook. Through working on a dough, precise instruction on technique, stories from his professional life up to creating hundreds of ravioli, the whole lesson was really nice. I felt I was learning new things and gaining new skills. Brilliant! I love to eat afterwards food I prepared, but this time the pleasure was magnified by the setting of the lunch. The old building where the cooking classes took place has a beautiful garden with lush green vegetation and relaxing view. Massimiliano opened a few bottles of excellent wines just perfect to accompany our handmade ravioli.     This was not the end, though. We spent the afternoon in the nearby forest hunting for truffles. A weird looking dog was our guide and we even found a few small truffles. The best part, however, was a walk with stunning views over the gentle hills and fields. This was a very relaxing time and...

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Read the previous post. One morning we got invited to participate in cooking with the family we rent the apartment from. The mother and the daughter were waiting for us at 9:00 am in their apartments. There was also a silent father present who, with a kind interest, was watching his daughter and wife running the show. This was not the first time I participated in Italian cooking classes. It was still special because of the whole family present on site. I could observe and experience two generations’ meeting in the kitchen and the way these two extraordinary women work together. The Book I started a conversation with a question about the books I borrowed from them a few days before: a series published by the local paper with photos and description of the local traditional costumes. After a question why they stopped buying the books at part 4 the two women turned into furious beasts. They were so unhappy about the pictures, lack of care, terribly wrong details and, most of all, the sort of pictures taken. In some photos, the models were in aggressive poses and it worked poorly with traditional costumes. Both women showed their disappointment and thus we cold experience how important the tradition is for them. I couldn’t agree more. Although the albums were printed on high-quality paper and with an eye-catching hardcover, the narrative and the concept of making the traditional costumes ‘up-to-date’ was so wrong! This was poorly done. Somebody attempted to bring the tradition closer to the present times but failed. Due to copyrights I cannot insert here any pictures of these books taken on site. Soon, we left the books and focused on cooking.  The Cooking It all started with the preparation of a wooden table and bringing the ingredients. First, Maria Efisia – the mother – prepared filling of the ravioli. They used a particular kind of cheese called ricotta and although you can buy it all over Italy the one in Sardegna contains not only the milk of a sheep but at the final stage of the process, unlikely elsewhere in Italy, the farmers add more cow’s milk. This extra care results in extremely mild and delicate cheese. Thus, with few yolks, saffron, and nutmeg, a very tasty filling was formed. We, then, could focus on preparing the pasta and, what takes most of the time, rolling and forming the ravioli. Along the process, when our hands were occupied, Maria Efisia was telling us about their family and village, about tough times and few joys they have. She was extremely proud of her actions that saved old baskets made out of cane.  The story In the late 60s, people run mad about modern plastic objects and they were throwing away all that was old and hand made. It includes a total refurbishment of the local church which we saw last Sunday and which today looks like after a fire that destroyed everything that was ancient. Maria Efisia on the contrary: she was conserving not only the heritage of her family but also went to the courtyards where her neighbours were throwing away their old stuff away. She showed us her collection of baskets used in cooking. As this was hand made, the current price is really high so when she showed us her treasures she was holding them as something precious. Maria Efisia was emphasising how expensive these objects currently are. Watching this woman attachment to the past it felt very special. Although she showed us the most important things for her she did it as a person who realises that the past will never come back. She feels like a real hero in the contemporary times who struggles and fights against the odds in order to preserve the history of the family and the place. Miraculously, her family has always been and still is into the farming business, thus, the worst crisis that hit the island after mining business collapsed, bypassed them. It was touching to watch their struggle. They all are very proud of living in the same place for 7 generations, their hospitality is legendary. They, just like hundreds of others, struggle to find their place in the contemporary society. They feel very far from the mainstream society and the things that happen in Rome – on the continent, as they say. Contrary to the rest of Italy, where people tend to be optimistic, here you hear a tone of despair. People here know they live in the peripheries and that the politicians in Rome or Brussels care very little about their wellbeing. Some of them feel left behind and for some of them this is a call to act and to take care for themselves. I’d say that people in Sardinia are focused on survival with a strong flavour of tradition and their own identity. And so, talking through the history and presence, we successfully produced about 300 ravioli. They were all stored in old baskets in layers interlarded with a clean table cloth. It was left until the next day when we got invited for a dinner. The Dinner We came in the late evening. The whole family was there and so, with no further delay, we started the feast. The hospitality of this Sardinian family was overwhelming. The food was so good that after starters I ate enough but there was still the first and the second course, meat and the dessert with coffee. I skipped the meat but it smelled so delicious that I got a dog bag and I could taste it the next day. This was a very pleasant day. I learned not only the new recipes and cooking skills but also a history of the family from Fluminimaggiore. I also had an opportunity to watch their pride and hospitality from a close distance. Altogether this was a marvellous experience. More about Sardinia soon.  

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I’ve just got back from Sardinia where I spent more than two weeks. There is a lot of stories to tell and hundreds of pictures to share but I can tell you one sure thing: a variety of landscapes and attractions in Sardinia is amazing! It is a wonderful beach destination and all sand & sea fans will find themselves in a paradise. Even within beach business you will find an extreme variety. From white sand and pristine water, through stones and rocks up to the beaches surrounded by high peaks with monuments on top of them. Further, if you are a fan of industrial historical sites you will find yourself in Sardinia like a fish in the water. A widespread mining industry that collapsed more than 50 years ago left here its marks. Sardinia is also a wonderful playground for long and short trekkings with spectacular views. Sardinia means also culture and tradition and what I found delightful the sort of tradition still kept alive by the locals. Through the folklore groups, music bands, and religious feasts’ celebration the culture in Sardinia is easy to trace. I was lucky to participating in one of the biggest feasts in Sardinia organized August 15th and devoted to Virgin Mary. And above all Sardinia surprised me to be just a perfect site to watch the stars. I simply cannot wait to tell you all that happened in last two weeks and sharing interesting stories. If you have ever dreamed about visiting Sardinia, reading these posts is a great way to start. Stay tuned! Click here to read the first episode.  

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Holiday with a blogger is my recent idea. It is pretty simple: through a website of the project  ‘I love Ferrara’ you can book a week stay in Ferrara with me. I traveled a lot in last 10 years and I think this is the perfect time to share my experience with others. Twice a year – in September and in May – you can enjoy Italy at its best. Interested in details? Click here for the full story. The idea of such holiday offered by a blogger was so enthusiastically received that I’m sharing here a great news! It’s not only Ferrara you can visit this way. Jessica – editor of Epicure and Culture – invites you to join her on a journey to Amalfi Coast. Read her story and visit her website! Amalfi Coast You know those tours where you ride around on giant tourist buses, snapping photos of guidebook-listed sights and viewing your destination as if it were an animal at the zoo? This is not one of those tours. In partnership with G Adventures, a leader in the experiential and sustainable tourism industry, Epicure & Culture Magazine has launched Epicure & Culture Tours, with their first excursion being to Italy’s Amalfi Coast. Epicure & Culture editor Jessica Festa understands that not all travelers like to journey on their own or without support — and might not feel qualified to make arrangements for a trip to a foreign country — but may still want an immersive cultural experience that can’t be found in a guidebook. After working with G Adventures and going on one of their tours herself, she fell in love with their sustainable philosophy, dedication to changing the lives of local communities and focus on authentic adventures. It was this that inspired her to partner with the company to combine their 24+ years of experience with her desire to provide Epicure & Culture readers and travelers the opportunity to experience their destination from a new point of view. Moreover, she wanted to provide experiences like having a private guide and driver, traveling in a small group (average of 12) and renting a private Tuscan farmhouse at an affordable rate. “I want people to see there is more to travel than just checking off attractions in a guidebook or hopping on a tour bus to cram seeing an entire city into a few hours,” Festa explains. “I want to make it easy for people to book a tour that allows them to live like a local and truly immerse themselves in a new culture for a transformative travel experience.” Tailor made For the Amalfi Coast tour — taking place from September 26 to October 3, 2015 — travelers stay with a family in a 16th century former monastery agriturismo (farm stay) just outside of Furore, Italy. Immersed in a lush world of lemon trees, olive groves and vineyards you’ll experience local culinary culture by picking your own produce from the garden and helping your hosts prepare the meals. You’ll probably notice how healthy the locals of the Amalfi Coast look, and while much of this is due to the diet and wine (a superfood!) it’s also thanks for the beautiful landscapes and hiking opportunities. Trekking is a major component of the tour, with some highlights being the Valle dei Mulini complete with waterfall views and scenic picnic, Mount Tre Calli where you’ll see the Mediterranean from above and the Walk of the Gods, just as visually indulgent as the name suggests. You’ll also eat pizza in the very city it was invented (Naples), explore the ruins of Pompeii, enjoy water scenery as you sail from Positano to Amalfi by boat, roam around beautiful coastal towns littered with historic churches, beaches, markets, weathered stucco architecture and colorful hillsides stacked with houses. For those wanting to travel in a sustainable manner, the Local Living On Italy’s Amalfi Coast Tour operates with responsible tourism in mind. Along with working with Planeterra to reduce any negative impact from tourism and have a positive affect on the local economy, the tour employs local guides and operators, uses responsible family-run accommodations, works with small local entrepreneurs and offers advice to travelers on how to travel more responsibly, for example, using refillable water bottles and cotton tote bags. Book now for their 2015 departure, as spots are filling up fast. You won’t want to miss this culturally-immersive experience like no other! Tour must be booked by February 2, 2015. You can ask questions or book by emailing Jessica Festa at editorial (at) epicureandculture (dot) com and telling her the number of people you’ll be traveling with. Disclosure: all pictures were provided by Jessica and are used on a license Creative Commons. I was not offered any compensation for this blog post; we are friends with Jessica and fully support each other to make the idea of ‘Holiday with a blogger’ widely known. Pictures source: http://tinyurl.com/ncd6xkw http://tinyurl.com/qjc4msr http://tinyurl.com/nhf9mtn http://tinyurl.com/k8hqxel Have you ever thought about visiting Italy? Here is an alternative way on how to visit Italy and get really close to the Italian way of life. I created a project ‘I love Ferrara‘ so you could join me and experience how beautiful and tasty Ferrara is. If you wish to immerse in Italy book your holiday now!  

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Holiday with a blogger is my recent idea. It is pretty simple: through a website of the project iloveFerrara.it you can book a week stay in Ferrara with me. I traveled a lot in last 10 years and I think this is the perfect time to share my experience with others. And I am very interesting in meeting some of your – My Dear Readers and Followers. Interested in details? Here is the full story. Why with a blogger? There are two reasons why this holiday is fun. First is because the guidance I offer is very particular. I’ll tell my own story in Italy rather than a very traditional and rigid guided tour. Second, this travel idea is based on very individual treatment of every participant. I think about this idea as showing my favorite places to my friends, so the group is limited to 4 people! That’s right! Only 4 people so we could drive through the region by car, just like ordinary Italians do. No crowd, no buses, no traditional tourists around you! I think the beauty of this idea is in my expertise, familiarity with the area and international experience. This holiday is just how I like it best: slow, tasty, funny, interesting and in a good company. The best thing about it is that I tried the major part of local attractions and I picked up the best for you. So what you really buy is a very particular experience of Italy that employs all your senses. You will taste Italy, see Italy, smell Italy, hear Italy and touch Italy. There is no better way to experience and remember any country. Why Ferrara? Simply because I lived there and because I love this city. I have many reasons for this particular tie with this UNESCO site: many of my friends live there, I have many happy memories from this place, I like the way it looks, I appreciate all seasons in this city and I also visited it many times with my foreign friends showing them my favorite places around. I think it is beautiful, elegant and so friendly! The way locals ride their bikes or chill our in front of the cathedral makes me smile. Every single time I’m in this city this makes me happy! Why September and May? Because the weather is sunny enough to feel the Mediterranean climate and it is cool enough not to get tired and drained out by the summer heat.These are my favorite months in Italy. In May spring usually explodes with green and flowers and you can feel the warmth and sun. In September you still feel the warmth. More importantly, however, September is the best month to taste the traditional dish of Ferrara: cappellacci di zucca and it’s because the main ingredient is pumpkin, which is exceptionally sweet in this area. Also, these months are just perfect for two events I particularly like: Palio and Street Dinner. Both of these events were described earlier on my blog so if you wish to want know more click the links. This year 5th edition of Street Dinner sounds already super cool: the rule is the same as previous years. You need to dress total white and you don’t know the location of this event until the very last minute. Ferrara is full of people dressed in white that evening and it looks so elegant! I enjoyed last year 4th edition and so I think if you wish to visit Ferrara you should do it this September! So watch the video below, visit the site iloveFerrara and book today! Ah, and share it with your friends! They might come too. See you in September in Ferrara! I am looking forward to meeting you!  

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You are familiar with my love towards Italian traditional food a visit in an excellent restaurant Antico Furlo is not a surprise. For the first time, however, I had an opportunity to spent time in professional kitchen with a famous chef Alberto Melagrana. Although I am familiar with traditional italian food made in Emilia – Romagna this was a totally different experience. Previous episodes of my adventures in Marche are here. Truffles We started with in depth discussion on truffles. Acqualagna town and Marche region are famous for their truffles of high quality and huge variety. Chef Alberto who traveled around the world had a short anecdote about everything, starting with cooking in Italian Embassy in Washington ending with a perfect consistency of cream, so it took us ages before we started to prepare the main course. Watching Alberto working in his kitchen was amazing: I have never seen a professional cook before and I as I never watch TV series with cooking on screen this was totally new for me. Many of his tricks while preparing meat with truffles were astonishing and I hope to use it someday at home. His deep knowledge of tastes from around the world and genuine love for italian food is alive in every meal he prepares. Cooking Starting with raw meat we went through all stages of preparations. This was all accompanied with endless stories from Alberto’s professional life, his learning process and cooking for famous people in renown restaurants. In Antico Furlo Alberto created his own menu with his own recipes. I was thrilled to know that most of the dishes are not served elsewhere! Accumulation of his cooking skills was impressive: antipasto with truffles was excellent! And, most of all, the final taste was totally surprising! Restaurant The restaurant is very particular so if you are looking something extraordinary this is the right place. Don’t expect quick service, though! This is not a fast food or even an ordinary restaurant. So prepare yourself for waiting. I can tell you that you will not be disappointed! The composition of ingredients made by Alberto will surprise you! By all means! It is worthy to book a table in advance and have a dinner here. I enjoyed my time with Alberto very much and the food served was totally awesome! Menu Petto di pollo steccato al tartufo, olive, fili di carote con insalata di misticanza e balsamico. Passatelli fonduta di casciotta d’Urbino, pecorino di fossa al profumo di zafferano. Crema pasticcera profumata al limone e arancia con fragole fresche. Wine: San Michele, Verdicchio di Jesi, DOC. Priceless Try to imagine this: a guest who actually enter a restaurant carrying her own dessert! I did it and the face of other guests in the room was just priceless! After the main course I went back to the kitchen and assisted a creation of a spectacular dessert. When I got back to a table carrying it I felt SO privileged to have the opportunity to watch Alberto. This was a really nice experience and a very tasty meeting with truffles! Interested in wine story? Here it is! Disclosure: I was kindly invited and hosted by the owners of Antico Fulro restaurant which I am very grateful for. Have you ever thought about visiting Italy? Here is an alternative way on how to visit Italy and get really close to the Italian way of life. I created a project ‘I love Ferrara‘ so you could join me and experience how beautiful and tasty Ferrara is. If you wish to immerse in Italy book your holiday now!  

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Marche – one of the smallest Italian regions – is splendid! I neglected it somehow while I was living in Italy. And I deeply regret it!  Therefore, I was very happy to plan this trip and discover Marche. Slowly. With no rush. And with wonderful hosts from Marche Holiday: Giorgia and Laura. They were telling me all local stories and the things that the are most proud of. We were eating truffles, enjoying the sun and watching a fabulous landscape from every place we went. I can tell you this: Marche is beautiful and worth visiting by all means! Three highlights here as an introduction to the rest of my story: landscape, Urbino, and food&wine. Landscape Are you familiar with the famous Chianti hills? Well, Tuscany is right around the corner and some hilly areas of Marche are pretty similar but I think Marche is more interesting. It has a very mild and sweet coastline. Pesaro, for example, is a good place to appreciate the beach, the sun and awesome colors of the Adriatic Sea. Further west you will find the hills covered with olive groves, vineyards, fields and forests. Finally, the hills become mountains with spectacular canyons, rivers and passes. Marche has it all! And it is all gathered in a relatively small space which also make Marche friendly and easily reachable. Urbino It overwhelms me every time: an ancient history ready to be touched at every corner. Urbino – a UNESCO world heritage site – is a perfect example. I will tell you the story of Palazzo Ducale and show some fabulous photos from this city but for now I can tell you that Urbino is amazingly beautiful. It is captivating and seducing with its colors and history. Food and wine Naturally, Italy means good food and wine, which is especially true in Marche. Acqualagna – where I was staying at – is famous for the truffles. Many of the dishes I ate were prepared of truffles in a variety of ways. I also had an opportunity to hunt for truffles with the dog, which I find one of the best activity I have ever had while traveling! Moreover, truffle dishes were always accompanied by excellent wines: the ones from in.PU.t or the one tasted in cantina Terra Cruda. Truffles, cheese, wine and olive oil are the basic tastes of Marche. So, one after another I will show you what Marche is all about. I will take you with me for a truffle hunt and a guided tour in Palazzo Ducale of Urbino. I will show you some breathtaking scenery and will present you some wonderful locals. Here is Episode #2: Living Like A Local! And episode #3: A photo gallery Gentle Hills of Marche, and episode #4: Cooking Lesson. Disclosure: my travel to Marche was possible thanks to a kind invitation of a local company Marche Holiday. All activities and my stay in Acqualagna were organized by them for which I am grateful.  

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