It was the third year in a row when I visit a mountain massif called Sasso Piatto. This is a beautiful part of the Dolomites thus I am not surprised that people tend to go back there, including me. After the first day of our short holiday spent in Ciampac, we enjoyed a light walk in Sasso Piatto. We took a cableway car for a variety of reasons: first, to relax before the third and the hardest day, second, to fully appreciate our location in walking distance from the cableway car, and first to go back to a well-known site and make the walk as easy as possible. A path from Col Rodella to Rifugio Sasso Piatto is one of the most frequented treks in the Dolomites. It is flat, easy and it offers spectacular views, therefore, hundreds of people decide to walk it on daily basis. The weather was not the best one, however, we enjoyed the chill wind and lack of sun. Many other tourists picked up this location even if the views were covered by the clouds. We watched our previous day itinerary from the distance which was a great experience. I’ve finally noticed a magnificent green massif in front of the Costabella chain and it was truly impressive. In less than an hour, we arrived at Rifugio Sasso Piatto to enjoy a hot tea and a great local dessert: strudel. It was full of tourists just as we were told a few days before by phone. Its interior design, however, is beautiful so we still had a great time and after a short break, we left the table for other tourists who kept coming and coming. The part of our itinerary downhill to Val Duron was much less crowded. We first crossed a small mountain hut called Malga del Sasso Piatto that was being repaired the last year. It opened this summer and next to a beautiful mountain restaurant the owner constructed a bread stove. The smell of a fresh bread is for me one of the most beautiful smells in the world, therefore, the view of fresh bread laying there on the wooden table was stunning. The next stage of the trek was full of small marmots, big cows and horned goats. In a total loneliness, we enjoyed the unspoiled nature. We felt light and happy which was exactly what we went after. The way back to the accommodation was easy and relaxing. TRAVEL TIP: if you plan to walk a path in a proximity to any cableway car start your journey as soon as possible, preferably with the very first run (8:30 in our case). The itinerary of day 2: Campitello – Col Rodella 2398 masl (by cableway car, ticket: 11 EUR) – Rifugio Fridrich August 2298 masl – Rifugio Sandro Pertini 2300 masl – Rifugio Sasso Piatto 2300 masl -Malga del Sasso Piatto 2256 masl – Rifugio Micheluzzi 1860 masl – Val Duron – Campitello. Read about day 1 itinerary Ciampac here. Read about day 3 itinerary Antermoia here.  

The post The Joy of the Returns: Sasso Piatto, the Dolomites. appeared first on Null & Full.

For obvious reasons, travelling off season brings you many benefits. Not only the destination is less crowded and cheaper but also it offers you unpredicted weather conditions which make the journey adventurous. I personally prefer off season travels but sometimes, out of a variety of reasons, we are forced to make choices and this time I just had to be in Italy on a particular day at the precise time. As a result, a short holiday in the Dolomites happened in the middle of peak season. Here is a story how I survived peak season in the Dolomites. I spent three days on the dirt path in the high parts of the mountains and brought you marvellous photos from this wonderful UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Accommodation At the beginning of my holiday planning, I was determined to stay only in the mountain huts along the so called Via Alta delle Dolomiti which is a multi-day trekking across the Dolomites. I phoned to a few of the mountain shelters to book my stay only to discover they were all fully booked. Naturally, each mountain hut will accept guests even if they give you only a mattress and a small piece of the floor but you still need to pay for this doubtful ‘comfort’.  The vision of a lonely mattress at the end of the long corridor sounded less exciting than I expected so I thought that I should rethink my holiday plan. Flexibility is good. Fortunately, my husband had a similar impression and together we decided to find an accommodation in one of the villages in Val di Fassa. This time it was Campitello and a wonderful Chalet Marcora, a family run small and comfortable place. A beautiful interior design, high-quality abundant breakfasts and friendly staff made our stay pleasant. From Campitello we had all trekking paths at our fingertips. Day 1: Ciampac We started our first day in nature quite early. It was wonderfully chilly with a temperature of 12C. A glorious sunny day made our wake up an easy task. We left our chalet at 8:15 a.m. and followed the path along the stream towards Fontanazzo. From a crossroads near the wooden bridge, we climbed up to enjoy spectacular views after 1h 30min. The view opened up and we admired Catinaccio massif, Sasso Piatto and Sella Group. We saw them all at the same time which was thrilling. The path followed up, crossed green meadows of the Val de Crepa full of happy cows and brought us up to the pass Pian de Selle at the level of 2185 masl. We had our first break at the pass, looking at the majestic mountain chains in front of our eyes. From the pass, we also saw our target: Rifugio Ciampac located on the magnificent background of high peak Sas de Roca (2618 masl). We went down to the chalet and we had a lovely lunch there in a jolly company of construction workers who were renovating the other two huts: Baita Valeruz and Tobia del Jagher. The owner was charming and the food was great. Out of the window, we could the the Sella Group which was lovely. After lunch, we followed the steep road towards Canazei which in winter transforms into a ski slope. It is so steep that only expert skiers can ski there and watching in the middle of the summer convinced me about it. We continued the downhill trek passing huge lorries that were carrying up construction materials which was a downside of this part of our trek. All in all, we came back to our accommodation happy and tired. TRAVEL TIP: the paths located far from cable railway and funiculars are always less crowded even in peak seasons. The itinerary of day 1: Campitello – Fontanazzo 1395 masl – Val de Crepa – Pian de Selle 2185 masl – Rifugio Ciampac 2170 masl – Canazei – Campitello. Read about day 2: Sasso Piatto. Read aboud day 3: Antermoia.  

The post The Italian Dolomites in peak season appeared first on Null & Full.

It’s not the first time I had a chance to skiing in the Dolomites but the two weeks I spent in Colmean were truly spectacular. The most beautiful part of this story is the people: Adriano and Maria Rosa. They are the owners of the place we rented and they hosted us like their own family. We felt like at home and this is the reason why we had such a great time. If you consider skiing in the Dolomites their AirBnB is the best place to start. The Snow Storm The day we arrived in Colmean the snowstorm hit. For weeks before our arrival, there was no such violent event this winter year so I guess we can call ourselves lucky. The funny thing was that even twenty kilometres from the village there was no snow whatsoever and it was even raining! No surprises though, that we did not believe in the snow before we approached Passo San Pellegrino. At the altitude of two thousand meters, the rain turned into snow and the storm started. As long as we descended the car could handle it but the moment we started the final ascent it did not. We got blocked by the heavy piles of snow in the middle of a tiny road. It was dark, cold and really wet. We felt drained out and quite desperate. Adriano, the owner, phoned us a couple of times and promised to wait along the way to assist us in the final stretch. We went back for help to the nearest bar. A local guy who worked there mounted the chains but the snowfall was excessive and we lost them straightaway. Again, we went back to the bar and the other guests who had their aperitivo there advised we should take an alternative longer route. I can tell you that we felt much better when the local people offered us their help and support. This is the magic of the true journey: the good and sympathy you experience. Therefore, we drove uphill an alternative route and reached the bridge where Adriano was waiting for us, covered with snow. The car did not make it as the uphill road was steep so we left the it at the parking space, advised by Adriano. We took our luggage and walked the final 300 meters. The warm welcome by Maria Rosa and Adriano rose our spirit. Their wooden house was a true bliss and we felt really well in that dark and wet evening. The snow falling and watched from the warm and cosy room was fantastic! Skiing in the Sun Next morning we watched the landscape covered with deep snow and it was spectacular! All peaks around the valley were white, the trees as well and above this white quilt there was a blue sky. Out of our balcony, the view of the valley was breathtaking. Moreover, the sun melted the ice and snow on the road so we could freely move. An epic journey through the winter landscape began. We drove through Caviola and Falcade with our eyes wide open. What a beauty! The view of the mountains in winter time is one of the most beautiful things in the world! We spent next couple of days skiing in the ski area of San Pellegrino. They are part of Dolomiti Superski. The tracks are always well prepared and surprisingly there were not that many people skiing. We were lucky to have three sunny days in a row. The Locals On Monday evening we went out with the owners: Adriano and Maria Rosa. We had a super tasty pizza and we talked till late. We discovered common passions and delight. They shared stories about the geology of the Dolomites which sparked my interest. They asked a lot of questions about Poland thus we could act as ambassadors of our beautiful country again. We felt amazingly well in the apartment we had. The carefully renovated old barn with a modern touch was comfortable and cosy. Whether is was sitting on the balcony and taking a sunbath or cooking a nice meal it was really cool. Not only the views were spectacular but also the location for all skiers is just brilliant. The white crisp slopes are only twenty minutes away! Following the advice of Adriano we went for an afternoon walk in the valley called Val Venegia. Along the way, we passed a forest where the wood for famous violins are taken from, including Stradivarius. The valley itself is a delight. The view for the mountain chain San Martino di Castrozza is amazing. The deep snow only magnified our admiration. It was also a very easy trail and even in the snow the retired people can take it. I can’t wait to go back in the Dolomites. Whether in the summer or in winter this place is gorgeous!  

The post Skiing in the Dolomites appeared first on Null & Full.

I’m pretty sure that you’ve heard about Valpolicella at least once in your lifetime. It is the name of a zone full of gentle hills near Verona and it gave a name to the Valpolicella wine that people appreciate around the world. I am not a wine expert but since I lived in Italy I tasted a variety of white and red wines. I participated in a wine tasting before and I am probably an average wine fan: love it with whole my heart. When we left the Dolomites, we decided to expand our holiday and stay for a little bit longer in Italy. Verona and Valpolicella seemed to be just perfect. Last week, we participated in two wine tasting and here is my review, so you could pick up your own way. Valpolicella Valpolicella Classico is made from five grape varieties: Rondinella, Corvina, Corvinione, Oseleta and Molinara. For an amateur, it is pretty hard to distinguish the grapes seen on the grapevines but to the experts, this is a piece of cake. The location of Valpolicella is stunning and just perfect for wine cultivation. From the top of the hills on a sunny day, you can see the Adriatic Sea. The quality of the soil is outstanding as it is of a volcanic origin. Local microclimate brings a fresh breeze from the sea and from the nearby lake Garda. The cantina here is well ventilated which makes the drying process of grapes possible. Out of the variety of grapes grown in Valpolicella a series of red wines are produced: Valpolicella Classico, famous Amarone, sweet Recioto and Ripasso. Wine Tasting in Cantina Fratelli Vogadori Although we all prefer white wines, we could not miss the opportunity of wine tasting in Valpolicella. In a sunny afternoon, we started our tasting in a cantina called Fratelli Vogadori. We entered the building, crossed a cellar following the arrows and were seated at the table with five bottles or red wine. One of the owners was our guide. We got a list of wines that we should taste, bread with olive oil and a spittoon. One after another, the red wine filled our glasses and through the story told by one of the owners we did our best to taste vanilla, cherry, chocolate, and tobacco. Cherry was the easiest to spot. One of the wines we tasted was especially wonderful: it smelled fresh and fruity and after we tasted it, our mouths were full of vanilla. An amazing experience that involved not only our senses of taste and smell but also our memories. Our guide explained that what we sense in a wine depends on our personal experience and memories. We bought a few bottles of wine there and went back home completely satisfied. But this was not over. Next day we went to a different place and the wine tasting there was a totally different one. Wine Tasting in Tenuta Santa Maria Valverde After the first wine tasting in Valpolicella we expected a similar thing but we were completely wrong. This time, we got caught by the owners full of passion, joy and proud. We booked a wine tasting combined with lunch and arrived at noon, in a very hot day. The old buildings and well-ventilated garden welcomed us with desired fresh breeze. Ilaria and Nicola, a couple who owns the place, took us directly for a guided tour around their property. We started from a huge room dedicated to grapes drying process. All grapes, collected manually, are stored for at least 100 days from November to mid-February, depending on the weather and harvest. The room was empty but watching the wooden boxes we could imagine how hard it is to keep them safe from mold until they are ready for a fermentation process. Ilaria explained that each variety of grapes used in Valpolicella wine gives a different taste. Rondinella tastes like plums, Corvina and Corvinone like cherries, Molinara like green pepper, and Oseleta like mulberries. From the drying room, we went down to the cellar, where the smell of mold was overwhelming. Old wooden barrels and modern metal ones were laying there, working hard to produce the excellent wine. Ilaria, a charming woman who laughed a lot, explained the whole process of wine making, including all difficulties, obstacles, and unexpected events. Then, Nicola came and are told us a story of the family. His family has been making wine for the last three hundred years! The expertise in the matter is the air they breathe from the moment they were born. Fascinating. We finally got seated under the white umbrella in a tranquil green garden. The silence was only intermittent by the sound of cicada and gently running water. What a relaxing place! Nicola brought us the local cheese and sausages and the feast began. The taste of wines along with the local specialities was amazing but the final was mind blowing. To fully enjoy the last wine, Nicola brought a block of dark chocolate. It is impossible to describe how incredible it tasted. The whole experience was just fantastic! It took us more than three hours and we had to run before Ilaria showed us the grounds, which was a shame. The owners told us that we could stay with them until the evening and I think that next time I will dedicate the whole day to stay in this marvellous place. Which wine tasting to choose? These two wine tasting experiences were picked up randomly. I had no previous contact with any of these places nor asked for suggestions to any of my friends. Obviously, each of these places has their own way of showing the excellency of the Valpolicella wines. It is up to you, what you prefer. I’d say that I should probably go back to Santa Maria Valverde because of the whole experience. I think that I tasted not only the wine there but most of all, what this region and the family business is all about. I deeply appreciate the...

The post Wine tasting in Valpolicella appeared first on Null & Full.

It looks like this spring has been a series of weekend retreats. As the writing of my book occupies the major part of my weeks I find a few free days to enjoy the weather. Last weekend I spent in Tatra, the highest Polish mountains, located in the south of the country. This was a great weekend because my Italian friends joined me and we walked together. It was their first time in the Polish highest peaks. Here is a review of our stay so you could plan your visit there. A weekend retreat – the itinerary This was a classic weekend retreat with two extra days. We met on Saturday in Kraków where my friends arrived by plane. We drove to Zakopane and stayed for the night in a hotel with a breathtaking panorama over the mountain range. We left on Sunday morning and climbed to Wiktorówki for a mass, and continued our walk up to the valley called Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich (Five Lakes Valley). We stayed overnight in the refugee there, hoping for the crowds to vanish. On Monday morning, we continued our walk up to Świstówka and walked down to Morskie Oko, one of the most popular places in the mountains with overwhelming crowds. We walked down back to Polanica, from where we took the bus and returned to Zakopane. We stayed for the night in Kraków, from where my friends went back to Italy the next day. Overall we walked 25 kilometers, with the drop of over 3000 meters: 1500 meters up and 1500 down. The Tatra Mountains The High Tatras is a special place for me. Not only I visited these parts of the world with my Dad when I was a child but also I was visiting it regularly as a teenager. I felt always a strong connection to the snowed peaks and rocks, small lakes and cascades. I have many wonderful memories from the trails there, both in spring and winter time. The mountain range is pretty modest and the moment you climb up to 1500-1700 m.a.s.l. you can see almost all peaks at the same time (it’s only about 175 km²). There is a National Park established over fifty years ago and the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The crowds The modest surface of our highest mountains results in crowds. In order to avoid people you should probably visit this place in late autumn or early spring but it might be risky due to the difficult weather conditions. It is good to avoid May and June as the school trips tend to visit Morskie Oko making the noise and the mess all over the place. The best way to escape the tourists is to go up, where only a few people go, stay in a refugee overnight and walk even higher the next day. The Weekend We had a great time, no doubts about it! The weather was splendid even though the forecast was very pessimistic. There was not even one drop of rain and two days were full of sun. We were lucky to bring with us summer outfit, hats, and shawls to cover the skin. We had a few snack brakes with an amazing panorama in front of us. The Controversy One of the most famous tracks in the Tatra Mountains is the Eagle Path. There is an ongoing debate whether the path should be closed down due to the recurring deaths of the inexperienced climbers or whether it should be left as it is. I walked the Eagle Path a few years back and it is rather demanding. I would not suggest you to walk it unless you are experienced, have no fear of heights, are able to follow the via ferrata and can handle the extreme fatigue.  

The post Tatra Mountains: a weekend retreat with friends appeared first on Null & Full.

After two months spent in this wonderful Italian region, I would like to share best pictures of Puglia with you. This is not the photo album presenting all best sites in Puglia. By no means! It is, however, my personal itinerary of winter spent there and best pictures I took. I am convinced that a picture is worth a thousand words so with no further hesitation here are 15 best pictures from Puglia. Small and friendly Towns It all started in Oria a small and frienly town deep south. It is situated on a hill and has a remarkable history of the Jewish community. For me, however, the most striking thing was the legend that St. Peter walked through Oria when he was going to Rome, to die. Ancient roots of the parish in Oria. Old and picturesque Not only old stones but also old cars. Oria was all about old school views. Excuisite Architecture Everywhere you go in Puglia, sooner or later you get to a place that is an example of the baroque style. I saw the real pearls there! Top Attractions Ostuni has been known to me for a long time. I considered it a must see while in Puglia. I spent one sunny day in Ostuni but the city, although it is nice, was very touristy. I prefer less known destinations. Ostuni is worth a one day visit but there is so much more to see in Puglia! Alberobello UNESCO site Equally true was the fame of Alberobello. This UNESCO site known for its downtown full of trulli houses was somehow dissapointing. It is just too perfect! Clear, white, well kept looks like a huge tourist attraction. Don’t get me wrong. It is worth a visit. I went there twice and let me tell you this: once is enough. Welcome to Gallipoli! Gallipoli has recently gained a status of super popular tourist destination. Many of my Italian friends visited it at least once. The inflow of visitors has changed this place. Apart of downtown, the city build along the shore is new and, unfortunatelly, not so beautiful. I enjoyed one morning visit in the old part of Gallipoli. It was so beautiful! Otranto Otranto was far from Oria but even though I drove down there to enjoy one of a few places in Italy conquered once by the Turkish army. I especially enjoyed the view on totally empty at this time of the year marina. I have a dream to sail there! And, above all, at 15:00 there was literally nobody. I had a city to myself! What a luxury! Seafood in seaside towns Every single town in Puglia is so close to the coast that you can eat excuisite seafood literally everywhere. It tastes like heaven! Friendly Locals In many of the locations visited people were charming. I got friendly with the locals and it turned my stay in Puglia in a sort of extended family visit. Sea I love the sea. Especially in a cold and windy day. The view of the waves and the lighthouse is one of the most beautiful things on earth! Monopoli was stunning! I visited five times just to fully enjoy its atmosphere. Bari of Saint Nicola I had no idea how important the Basilica of St. Nicola in Bari is. A celebration of Christmas there and another visit in a crypt downstairs where relics of St. Nicola are held was a powerful experience to me. And the prayer in Russian of this old lady whispered in front of the Saint was touching. Charming downtowns Here is Monopoli again. I found it most intriguing. A truly lovely place, full of inner beauty, surprising tiny streets, excellent restaurants and the view on a rough sea. The picture perfect. Olive oil Crossing Puglia makes you think that this region is all about olive oil. I was lucky. Usually, in December, the olive harvest is long gone. This year was exceptionally good and even in late December and early January farmers were still coming to frantoio to have their olives turned into olive oil. The smell of olives was everywhere not to mention a fantastic taste. How to visit Puglia in winter. Advice I found Puglia in winter the most charming place. There were no tourists, the locals had time and interest in visitors, the quality of services and food was excellent. I personally see no reason why anyone would like to come here in summer time. Winter was just perfect! The weather was spring like with only three rainy days in more than two months! The blue sky was an everyday view and I would recommend Puglia in winter to every traveler who wants more than just sunny beaches and cheap drinks.    

The post Puglia in pictures appeared first on Null & Full.

I have never been to Puglia before. Since I enjoyed the idea of spending cold Polish winter elsewhere, which became a sort of a new tradition, there was a decision to make. I picked up Puglia, the most southern part of Italy. There were many reasons to come here. The weather was one of them, and the food too. I did not know that much about Puglia before I came and stayed for a while. Therefore, there was no real anticipation nor high expectations. I also read a post about Puglia in summer by my dear friend Cathy  and it was intriguing enough to think about winter in Puglia. I’ve been living here for a month now and I am sure this was a great decision. Here is a short list of my reasons why you should visit Puglia in winter. No crowds In recent years, Puglia has become a popular holiday destination. Thousands of Italians and foreigners visit this region, mostly in the summer time, that is in June, July and August. These months turn Puglia into a frenetic zone, full of crowds and noise. Such a circumstance should not discourage you to visit this part of the world, though. Instead of coming here in the hot and crowded season, I suggest you come in winter time. There is literally nobody here! Being the only tourist in a city of Oria with 12,000 of locals is fun! No lines, no waiting for hours in a restaurant, no noise. The winter life of locals is peaceful and full of surprises. Mild climate The cold and the warmth is a relative thing. In Puglia, the temperatures are above  zero degrees, and in the middle of the sunny day the temperature is as high as +19C. In average it is between 10C and 16C.  For me, this looks like a beautiful spring time. Moreover, the sun shines most of the days and it did not rain even once! I know these temperatures are far from +40C in the summer time, and I love it! It is perfect for a walk, the blue sky makes a perfect photo background and my running routine is effortless! Due to this wonderful weather, I was able to pursue my training plan. I’m running regularly three times a week and the conditions are just perfect! It looks like I’ll be well prepared to run a half marathon in April 2016. Excellent food No doubts Puglia is famous for its excellent food. This is true for both summer and winter time. There are still fresh fruits and vegetables here and, above all, super tasty frutti di mare. Fresh clams, squids, shrimps and fishes are delivered daily to small fish stores all over the place. I was not a huge fan of frutti di mare before, but I am now! I mean, how could you not? And there is the highest quality dairy. Burrata and stracciatella di burrata are two of my favourite fresh cheeses. A simple and very cheap lunch consists of a fresh bread, a piece of cheese, cherry tomatoes, olive oil, prosciutto crudo and sweet pears. Fabulous and very healthy food! Friendly locals If you are the only tourist in town just try to imagine how sweet the locals are. They are not tired with crowds and they have enough time and curiosity to spend a while with you. I got friendly with my neighbours quite quickly, not to mention a local tradesman who comes in his Ape car with fresh fruits every morning. He rings my bell and he sometimes leaves the fruits I ordered the previous day in front of my door, if I’m out. What a service! Silence Most of all, what makes my winter in Puglia a perfect experience, is the silence. I need it to work on my book. The good news is, I have recently completed a chapter about the Cook Islands. This is a huge milestone and I have to admit that the atmosphere of Puglia helped me a lot! I hope to bring you more stories from Puglia. A visit at the hairdresser was very interesting. Living like a local is my superpower so stay tuned and come back for more.  

The post Why you should visit Puglia in winter appeared first on Null & Full.

This is not a politically engaged post. I will not attempt to take sides regarding this conflict nor will I discuss the possible faults of those  involved. I will share, however, something that is important to me. This is my review of the recently published book by Dervla Murphy “Between River and Sea“,  focused on the Middle East conflict. It’s just a book It’s just a book – I thought when I took it in my hand. There is no way it concerns me. I felt I was far removed from the Middle East and I have never visited any of the countries involved in the conflict nor have I had an intention to, but I started reading and quite quickly realized how wrong I was. Dervla Murphy is a distinguished travel writer, an icon of independent traveling. Her life is an endless inspiration to all cyclists and serious travelers. In her late seventies and early eighties, she ventured into a difficult territory – a journey to Palestine and Israel.  “Between River and Sea” is her reflection on the conflict and although she has always been politically active in a variety of situations none of her previous books is as sharp, clear and on the edge of a political advocacy. Objectivity This post is not politically engaged, but Dervla’s book is. She states right from the very beginning that her heart is with the suffering Palestinians and against Zionism of any form. It might seem controversial to state your personal political views on the issue on the first page of the book, but I think this was wise – for a variety of reasons. Sooner or later the reader realizes the author’s views and if not revealed before, this can result in a loss of trust.  A declaration of belief frames the story and leaves no space for the unsaid.  People often state that they appreciate objectivity, but I sometimes find it hypocritical. Rarely, if at all, do authors and journalists make the effort to look at an issue from a variety of perspectives and I see no reason why people should avoid stating their opinions clearly. So don’t look for objectivity in Dervla’s book because you will not find it. Reality This book was hard to read and very hard to finish. It was heavy, deeply disturbing, sometimes cruel and very literal in the descriptions of harassment.  Page after page the author shows the misery of people who live in this region and what I found most difficult to deal with was their lack of hope for the future. The reality of war is horrible and we all know this, the population suffers, decade after decade. The hate grows and is passed from one generation to another.  Just like every other war the conflict between Israel and Palestine turns ordinary people into orphans, widows, widowers, and single parents. I don’t believe there is one person in the Middle East who is not affected by the loss of a relative or a friend. Living in fear destroys a healthy personality and turns children into a generation with no hope. What is this have to do with me? If you read this book it will hit you. Even if you thought you were well removed from this conflict, after reading this book you will find yourself in the middle of it. It’s because the cruelty of war leaves no one indifferent. If  you read about cruelty towards children you will become angry. If  you know about injustice, it can not be ignored. And, most of all, because the population of both Palestine and Israel are deeply marked with mutual mistrust, they need somebody from the outside to help them understand the situation. And to see hope where there is none. Although I consider this book very important I don’t think it is helpful. Don’t get me wrong. There was no way Dervla Murphy could have written this book differently. She did what she’s always done: meeting people, staying with them for a couple of days, asking difficult questions, and sympathizing with those affected most by poverty. When you are reading this book you get a feeling that the author becomes one of them, and while this is natural it results in seeing this life through their eyes only which can narrow the reader’s perspective.  It is beneficial for the book, but it does not get us any closer to the peace.  This book is excellent in showing the misery and the suffering of all residents of this land of fire. It should leave you uneasy.  

The post Between River and Sea appeared first on Null & Full.

Read the previous post. I haven’t considered Sardinia a trekking destination but when Cesare told me there are some fine paths I couldn’t resist taking with me my trekking equipment. He forgot how poorly I bare the heat and it became a serious matter in planning a one day trek from Grugua to Cala Domestica. We came with a super clever idea of taking the earliest bus of the day, which was 5:50 am. It was still dark when we walked down the street to the bus stop but during a short 20 minutes bus ride, the sun rose. The plan was straightforward: we walk as fast as we can in the morning to exploit the chill. The whole path was divided in a few parts of a very different landscapes: we started in the woods, walked down through the farm of Modigliani family, proceeded through the canyons and mine settlements to finally arrive at the beach called Cala Domestica. The final 4 km was a path along the coast with breathtaking views. Cala Domestica All went as planned. To some extent. We arrived at the beach before 10:00 am and I felt the heat has started. Not only all others were in their swimming suits which made me feel weird in long trousers and trekking shoes but also this was a very warm day. We also walked about 18 km in a very fast pace so I felt a bit tired. Perhaps a dress of Cesare made the situation slightly more interesting as he was dressed like a 19th-century entomologist. He had white long sleeve shirt, a weird hat, two backpacks and a long stick with a microphone to register the local bugs (crickets). Literally everybody was staring at us as we crossed the beach. The Coast To gain a bit of energy for the final stage, we had a cold drink at the bar. After a while, we pulled ourselves together and started walking again. The heat was vicious but despite this we had to climb up to about 70 meters above the sea level. The first part of the path was nicely marked so we walked it in no time, but then it all started. The map was inaccurate. The terrain was covered with rocks and a low vegetation full of spikes. There was no sign of the path and all we had, was our common sense and a clear bearing. We could almost see Buggerru, from where the bus should take us back home, so the only thing was to cross the rocky hills. It was a very rocky walk, up and down, up and down. Just like mountain goats we jumped from one rock to another. The bus should leave Buggerru at 12:58 but half an hour before this moment we were still in the middle of nowhere. The panorama was breathtaking and I wished to enjoy it for a couple of minutes but the heat was squeezing out water from our bodies with no mercy and so we hurried up. I felt salt covering my body and a slight attack of panic. I could not bare the though of being late for this bus and staying for another 3 hours in the town waiting for the next one. So we started running. And the final 2 km we run like hell. Downhill, right to the middle of the town to catch the bus. I was exhausted! But we managed to catch the bus, go back home and lie down for the rest of the day. The rules Although Sardinia is a demanding terrain, I would like to encourage you to pursue an adventure here. It is warm and sunny in August but with good organizational skills you will enjoy unforgettable views here. A path along the coast was truly spectacular! Also, the breeze from the sea made the final kilometers bearable despite the noon heat. If you wish to find an original, not crowded, off the beaten track, fascinating and, above all, challenging terrain, Sardinia is the right place for you. Remember about taking a huge quantity of water with you or control the map and ask locals for the sources along the path. And start as early in the morning as possible. Alternatively, visit Sardinia in shoulder season. I’m pretty sure the locals will love you for doing this. Interested in local food and cooking? This post is for you!  

The post Trekking in Sardinia appeared first on Null & Full.

Read the previous episode One of the evenings last week was especially enjoyable. We drove far north, crossed few little towns (Arbus, Guspini, Sanluri, Las Plassas) and found ourselves in a different subregion. The area located far from the sea differs greatly from where we stayed. Fluminimaggiore is only 7km from the shore and is surrounded by the mountains of about 1000 meter high. A new region called Marmilla was quite different. Its flatness and dryness was what striked most. Rocky hills are left in the south and the whole region is a great burnt plain. Every little hill gave us an opportunity to see far in every direction. Dried fields, olive groves, modest shruberry were pretty much all. After a few kilometres, there was a curiosity: the remains of the volcano that created a regular plain formatted about a hundred meters above the rest of the plains called Giara. Not only being volcanic makes it special: it has been formatted out of basalt few thousands of years ago which made it a surpassing in this dry land a rich reservoir of fresh water. Out of this height four different rivers have their sources and there are many natural wells. Such unusual natural conditions caused the appearance of a bronze age culture called the Nuragic civilization after nuraghe – a characteristic building remains just like the one below. Archeology The Nuragic Civilization had a few distinctive characteristics, however, most of the issues related to their social life and religion is obscure. Many of the scientific theories remain unconfirmed. They were living in a relative isolation for few hundred years and created fortifications and large villages in this area. As Sardinia has been conquered many times throughout of history by a variety of dominate groups like Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantine Greeks just to become a playground of powerful kingdoms and duchies in mediaeval and modern times. As a result of such turbulent history, there is an exceptional mix of all elements of the past rulers. Therefore, there is plenty of archeological sites in Sardegna and I wanted to visit at least one of them. We started our journey at 16:00 but until 20:00 it was so hot I could hardly remember of what I saw. We entered an archeological site of Giara accompanied by two little local dogs. The view made us partially sad and partially fascinated with what we saw. The site looks like abandoned many years ago, there was only one wooden board with basic information about the place and the other ruins and remains were left as they were found. There was a road constructed out of basalt, few houses, and a high wall. Although the panorama was beautiful as we were watching vast plain below of a bleach colors, the place was unfriendly. A strong wind made this impression of hostility even stronger. The large part of information about the place came from Cesare, whose master thesis was based on the field archeological research he did more than thirty years ago. He was deeply touched with what he saw and shared spontaneously his own memories. I think the absence of care for this place made him very sad. He looked like a person whose mind was in the same place but trapped thirty years ago and who was trying to make sense out of what he sees. Quite unsuccessfully, I’m afraid. As the heat drained us in a few minutes, we continued our visit by car and visited a small town of Gesturi and further Barumini. A UNESCO Site A description by UNESCO is very helpful to clarify what nuraghe is: “During the late 2nd millennium B.C. in the Bronze Age, a special type of defensive structure known as nuraghi (for which no parallel exists anywhere else in the world) developed on the island of Sardinia. The complex consists of circular defensive towers in the form of truncated cones built of dressed stone, with corbel-vaulted internal chambers. The complex at Barumini, which was extended and reinforced in the first half of the 1st millennium under Carthaginian pressure, is the finest and most complete example of this remarkable form of prehistoric architecture”. First, we stopped at the main square of Gesturi when a local feast was taking place. The square was decorated with color little flags that made a loud noise ruffled by the wind. Old ladies were leaving the church with their hair covered talking in the dialect that is impossible to understand. Their local saint has had 133 anniversary of birthday and so the town was celebrating. Then, we went to visit a must-see place. The UNESCO World Heritage Place called Su Nuraxi di Barumini. Even it was 19:00 in the evening it was still hot. I could hardly understand the guide and eventually gave up. I was just hanging around in the remains left out of the biggest known nuraghe. It was similar to the experience of walking the Pompeii complex though this one was much more modest and primitive. The round houses cuddled together and crouched around the main protective tower looked like little chickens with a hen. The guided visit caught my attention when we entered the tower through a very small passage with unregular stairs only to discover the inner circulation of the air was very limited. I became pale in a second and felt really bad so the rest of the visit I spent sitting on the of the rocks. As I rest a bit I felt better and could ask some questions to the guide. A concert In front of the ruins, there was a concert of the folk music organized by a band from Sardinia. We and a hundred of other people were sitting in the dark and watching an illuminated stage. It all started with the first song by Tenores di Neoneli Orlando and Eliseo Mascia – a well-known folk band of international fame. The sound was exquisite as these men performed a throat singing. Their powerful voice was echoed by the oldest ruins in the area...

The post Su Nuraxi di Barumini – A UNESCO Site appeared first on Null & Full.