The third day was the most difficult, the longest and the most rewarding. After two days of light walks, we decided we were ready to pursue the long itinerary that brought us up as high as 2770 masl. It all started with a bus ride from Campitello to Vigo di Fassa. We tested the public transportation of Val di Fassa for you. In the early morning, we got pretty scared when we discovered that the bus stop in downtown Campitello is full of tourists. I counted them and they were more than 50 and I thought that the bus is too small to bring them all to the destination. I was wrong. The bus was late of about 10 minutes but when it arrived I realized how well Val di Fassa is prepared. All of the tourists got on board. The service of selling ticket was equally efficient: a young man crossed the bus selling the tickets to all tourists. He also served as tourist information reminding each passenger where he or she should get off. By the time we arrived at our destination everybody was served. The bus services in Val di Fassa is a great alternative to cars. Not only it is a green solution but it saves you money for the parking place and it allows you to start and end your itinerary in a different place! We walked to the cableway car and bought the tickets. Up at Ciampedie we started our fast walk only to discover that in less than an hour we arrived at Rifugio Vajolet at 2244 masl. It was fast and pleasant. Many tourists followed this path but we were fast enough to left them far behind. We further continued to Passo Principe and in 1h 59min we were up there, at the altitude of 2599 masl. Quite a few other tourists were having their second breakfast there, in the hut, and we joined them and sit on the small terrace with breathtaking views. We had a warm tea and after a short break, we continued our trek. Next, we climbed at the highest point of the path, at the level of 2770 masl. The surrounded peaks looked magnificent at the background of the clear blue sky. Even though the weather forecast was pessimistic we unexpectedly enjoyed the sun. The temperature was about 9C and the air was brisk. From the pass, the way was all downhill. First, we crossed a completely dry valley, full of white rocks and with no vegetation whatsoever. At the end of the valley, we discovered a small emerald pond. The size of the pond is strictly related to the quantity of snow melted in springtime. This year it was modest. Just above the pond, we saw the next Refugee called Antermoia and we gladly relaxed eating our lunch. It took us 3 hours to climb there and the view was worth every minute. The refugee itself was interesting: there is a new owner who completely renovated the place. He installed the solar panels and made the interior looked modern. The staff was friendly and the food was obviously delicious. A wonderful reward for the 3h climb! An hour later we continued our journey. The view towards Sasso Piatto, Val Udai and Val de Dona were fabulous. Crossing kilometres downhill brought us full immersion in the green pastures of the Dolomites. There were very few people who followed our footsteps, therefore, we fully enjoyed the path and the views. The way back via Val Duron was a bit long but it was easy and we arrived at our accommodation fully satisfied. The whole itinerary covered 20km, it took us almost 6 hours to walk it, excluding brakes and lunch. Travel tip: watch the weather forecast carefully and in the case of the sudden change go back to safety as soon as possible. Itinerary day 3: Campitello – Vigo di Fassa (by bus, ticket: 1,80 EUR) – Rifugio Ciampedie 1998 masl (by cableway car, one way ticket: 9EUR) – Rifugio Gardeccia 1950 masl- Rifugio Vajolet 2244 masl – Rifugio Passo Principe 2599 masl- Passo Antermoia 2770 masl – Rafigio Antermoia 2497 masl- Val Duron – Rifugio Micheluzzi – Campitello. Read about day 1 itinerary Ciampedie here. Read about day 2 itinerary Sasso Piatto here.  

The post The New Path Discovery: Catinaccio and Rifugio Antermoia appeared first on Null & Full.

It was the third year in a row when I visit a mountain massif called Sasso Piatto. This is a beautiful part of the Dolomites thus I am not surprised that people tend to go back there, including me. After the first day of our short holiday spent in Ciampac, we enjoyed a light walk in Sasso Piatto. We took a cableway car for a variety of reasons: first, to relax before the third and the hardest day, second, to fully appreciate our location in walking distance from the cableway car, and first to go back to a well-known site and make the walk as easy as possible. A path from Col Rodella to Rifugio Sasso Piatto is one of the most frequented treks in the Dolomites. It is flat, easy and it offers spectacular views, therefore, hundreds of people decide to walk it on daily basis. The weather was not the best one, however, we enjoyed the chill wind and lack of sun. Many other tourists picked up this location even if the views were covered by the clouds. We watched our previous day itinerary from the distance which was a great experience. I’ve finally noticed a magnificent green massif in front of the Costabella chain and it was truly impressive. In less than an hour, we arrived at Rifugio Sasso Piatto to enjoy a hot tea and a great local dessert: strudel. It was full of tourists just as we were told a few days before by phone. Its interior design, however, is beautiful so we still had a great time and after a short break, we left the table for other tourists who kept coming and coming. The part of our itinerary downhill to Val Duron was much less crowded. We first crossed a small mountain hut called Malga del Sasso Piatto that was being repaired the last year. It opened this summer and next to a beautiful mountain restaurant the owner constructed a bread stove. The smell of a fresh bread is for me one of the most beautiful smells in the world, therefore, the view of fresh bread laying there on the wooden table was stunning. The next stage of the trek was full of small marmots, big cows and horned goats. In a total loneliness, we enjoyed the unspoiled nature. We felt light and happy which was exactly what we went after. The way back to the accommodation was easy and relaxing. TRAVEL TIP: if you plan to walk a path in a proximity to any cableway car start your journey as soon as possible, preferably with the very first run (8:30 in our case). The itinerary of day 2: Campitello – Col Rodella 2398 masl (by cableway car, ticket: 11 EUR) – Rifugio Fridrich August 2298 masl – Rifugio Sandro Pertini 2300 masl – Rifugio Sasso Piatto 2300 masl -Malga del Sasso Piatto 2256 masl – Rifugio Micheluzzi 1860 masl – Val Duron – Campitello. Read about day 1 itinerary Ciampac here. Read about day 3 itinerary Antermoia here.  

The post The Joy of the Returns: Sasso Piatto, the Dolomites. appeared first on Null & Full.

For obvious reasons, travelling off season brings you many benefits. Not only the destination is less crowded and cheaper but also it offers you unpredicted weather conditions which make the journey adventurous. I personally prefer off season travels but sometimes, out of a variety of reasons, we are forced to make choices and this time I just had to be in Italy on a particular day at the precise time. As a result, a short holiday in the Dolomites happened in the middle of peak season. Here is a story how I survived peak season in the Dolomites. I spent three days on the dirt path in the high parts of the mountains and brought you marvellous photos from this wonderful UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Accommodation At the beginning of my holiday planning, I was determined to stay only in the mountain huts along the so called Via Alta delle Dolomiti which is a multi-day trekking across the Dolomites. I phoned to a few of the mountain shelters to book my stay only to discover they were all fully booked. Naturally, each mountain hut will accept guests even if they give you only a mattress and a small piece of the floor but you still need to pay for this doubtful ‘comfort’.  The vision of a lonely mattress at the end of the long corridor sounded less exciting than I expected so I thought that I should rethink my holiday plan. Flexibility is good. Fortunately, my husband had a similar impression and together we decided to find an accommodation in one of the villages in Val di Fassa. This time it was Campitello and a wonderful Chalet Marcora, a family run small and comfortable place. A beautiful interior design, high-quality abundant breakfasts and friendly staff made our stay pleasant. From Campitello we had all trekking paths at our fingertips. Day 1: Ciampac We started our first day in nature quite early. It was wonderfully chilly with a temperature of 12C. A glorious sunny day made our wake up an easy task. We left our chalet at 8:15 a.m. and followed the path along the stream towards Fontanazzo. From a crossroads near the wooden bridge, we climbed up to enjoy spectacular views after 1h 30min. The view opened up and we admired Catinaccio massif, Sasso Piatto and Sella Group. We saw them all at the same time which was thrilling. The path followed up, crossed green meadows of the Val de Crepa full of happy cows and brought us up to the pass Pian de Selle at the level of 2185 masl. We had our first break at the pass, looking at the majestic mountain chains in front of our eyes. From the pass, we also saw our target: Rifugio Ciampac located on the magnificent background of high peak Sas de Roca (2618 masl). We went down to the chalet and we had a lovely lunch there in a jolly company of construction workers who were renovating the other two huts: Baita Valeruz and Tobia del Jagher. The owner was charming and the food was great. Out of the window, we could the the Sella Group which was lovely. After lunch, we followed the steep road towards Canazei which in winter transforms into a ski slope. It is so steep that only expert skiers can ski there and watching in the middle of the summer convinced me about it. We continued the downhill trek passing huge lorries that were carrying up construction materials which was a downside of this part of our trek. All in all, we came back to our accommodation happy and tired. TRAVEL TIP: the paths located far from cable railway and funiculars are always less crowded even in peak seasons. The itinerary of day 1: Campitello – Fontanazzo 1395 masl – Val de Crepa – Pian de Selle 2185 masl – Rifugio Ciampac 2170 masl – Canazei – Campitello. Read about day 2: Sasso Piatto. Read aboud day 3: Antermoia.  

The post The Italian Dolomites in peak season appeared first on Null & Full.

It’s not the first time I had a chance to skiing in the Dolomites but the two weeks I spent in Colmean were truly spectacular. The most beautiful part of this story is the people: Adriano and Maria Rosa. They are the owners of the place we rented and they hosted us like their own family. We felt like at home and this is the reason why we had such a great time. If you consider skiing in the Dolomites their AirBnB is the best place to start. The Snow Storm The day we arrived in Colmean the snowstorm hit. For weeks before our arrival, there was no such violent event this winter year so I guess we can call ourselves lucky. The funny thing was that even twenty kilometres from the village there was no snow whatsoever and it was even raining! No surprises though, that we did not believe in the snow before we approached Passo San Pellegrino. At the altitude of two thousand meters, the rain turned into snow and the storm started. As long as we descended the car could handle it but the moment we started the final ascent it did not. We got blocked by the heavy piles of snow in the middle of a tiny road. It was dark, cold and really wet. We felt drained out and quite desperate. Adriano, the owner, phoned us a couple of times and promised to wait along the way to assist us in the final stretch. We went back for help to the nearest bar. A local guy who worked there mounted the chains but the snowfall was excessive and we lost them straightaway. Again, we went back to the bar and the other guests who had their aperitivo there advised we should take an alternative longer route. I can tell you that we felt much better when the local people offered us their help and support. This is the magic of the true journey: the good and sympathy you experience. Therefore, we drove uphill an alternative route and reached the bridge where Adriano was waiting for us, covered with snow. The car did not make it as the uphill road was steep so we left the it at the parking space, advised by Adriano. We took our luggage and walked the final 300 meters. The warm welcome by Maria Rosa and Adriano rose our spirit. Their wooden house was a true bliss and we felt really well in that dark and wet evening. The snow falling and watched from the warm and cosy room was fantastic! Skiing in the Sun Next morning we watched the landscape covered with deep snow and it was spectacular! All peaks around the valley were white, the trees as well and above this white quilt there was a blue sky. Out of our balcony, the view of the valley was breathtaking. Moreover, the sun melted the ice and snow on the road so we could freely move. An epic journey through the winter landscape began. We drove through Caviola and Falcade with our eyes wide open. What a beauty! The view of the mountains in winter time is one of the most beautiful things in the world! We spent next couple of days skiing in the ski area of San Pellegrino. They are part of Dolomiti Superski. The tracks are always well prepared and surprisingly there were not that many people skiing. We were lucky to have three sunny days in a row. The Locals On Monday evening we went out with the owners: Adriano and Maria Rosa. We had a super tasty pizza and we talked till late. We discovered common passions and delight. They shared stories about the geology of the Dolomites which sparked my interest. They asked a lot of questions about Poland thus we could act as ambassadors of our beautiful country again. We felt amazingly well in the apartment we had. The carefully renovated old barn with a modern touch was comfortable and cosy. Whether is was sitting on the balcony and taking a sunbath or cooking a nice meal it was really cool. Not only the views were spectacular but also the location for all skiers is just brilliant. The white crisp slopes are only twenty minutes away! Following the advice of Adriano we went for an afternoon walk in the valley called Val Venegia. Along the way, we passed a forest where the wood for famous violins are taken from, including Stradivarius. The valley itself is a delight. The view for the mountain chain San Martino di Castrozza is amazing. The deep snow only magnified our admiration. It was also a very easy trail and even in the snow the retired people can take it. I can’t wait to go back in the Dolomites. Whether in the summer or in winter this place is gorgeous!  

The post Skiing in the Dolomites appeared first on Null & Full.

This winter is marvellous! I’m spending it in Valpolicella, a region of vineyards. Its location is special: from the west, it confines with Garda Lake and Monte Baldo, a relatively high mountain range. In the south, there is a large plateau with Verona town that is beautifully illuminated by night. The plateau expands into the south to meet the Adriatic Sea. In the east and north, further and higher mountain ranges expand. Therefore, the geology of Valpolicella makes this region very special. I was here before in a summer time thus read this post as the next episode of the same story. The house The house I’m renting through AirBnB is located high in the hills. It’s the first time in my life when I’m living at such high altitude and it changes everything! First of all, the view out of every window is breathtaking. Three different ranges in front of the house shaped in layers make a wonderful view. The highest one – Monte Baldo – is covered with snow and this is a picturesque background of the hills with vineyards. Right in front of the house, there is a large cherry grove. I can’t wait to see it flourish! The wine This is a wine region, no doubts about it. When I’m getting familiar with Valpolicella, either by car or by foot, it is covered with vineyards. The classic wine from here – Valpolicella Classico – consists grapes of five different varieties, therefore, the vineyards differ one from another. Currently, the local farmers spend sunny days on cutting the branches so the vine produces excellent grapes. Along every major and minor road, there are vineyards with large houses and wineries, where you can taste and buy the local wines. The weather As I expected, winter here is wonderful! The first three weeks of my stay here were sunny and dry. Watching the valley above and the peaks above out of my window raise my spirit. I was able to focus on brushing the final version of my book and get on with the process of publishing it. What I absolutely love about living here is the altitude that raises you above the clouds. So basically, in a small town of Negrar just 10km away there is have fog and rain while when you get up here there is a beautiful sun. You can watch the clouds from above and this looks spectacular. The running trails Last but not least, there is a variety of running trails. In fact, I was able to run regularly until yesterday, when a dog of my neighbour bit me! All in all, he only wore out my trousers but it scared me a bit. I am very happy though because of the change in running routine. Instead of a totally plain track, it is very steep here and this gives me an opportunity to practice and train alternative muscles. For the first couple of days it was really hard but after three weeks I got used to it. Feeling proud! The people Everywhere I go people are just fantastic. It is equally true for the people from Valpolicella. Not only the owner of the house is gentle and nice but also people I meet every day here. This looks like I picked up another wonderful location for winter to spend. Not only the weather is great but also the food, wine and people too. The overall experience is very positive so if you ever thought about spending winter in Valpolicella I would strongly recommend it.  

The post Valpolicella: above the clouds appeared first on Null & Full.

This is a guest post written by Alex from AuthorizedBoots.com who shared with us Top 13 Hiking Tips for Beginners. I know there are many people here who are trekkers and hikers themselves thus I’m sharing this article with great pleasure. It is important to remind ourselves some basic stuff from time to time so here are tips by Alex. Enjoy reading and plan your next hike wisely! Top 13 Hiking Tips for Beginners If you are looking for an adventure, the mountain might be the place for you. It hides a lot of beauty that is often unknown to us. Hiking is not just a form of exercise. Hiking is a way to get to know yourself and a way to discover the nature in its original form. When you finally decide to take that path, you will probably ask yourself what we need to start a hike. As we venture through the woods, this article is designed to remind us a few things before we decide to go on our trekking. 1. Weather Condition Weather plays the decisive role for your enjoyment in the mountains and the success of the hiking trip. Snowstorms, poor visibility, rain, fog and similar conditions are unfavorable for hikers, and can often be the cause of accidents during the trip. Before going out on your hiking trip, be sure to inform yourself what type of weather is expected in the coming days, because, based on that, you will know what kind of equipment and clothing to take. Important: Never ignore the weather forecast as it can lead to dangerous situations that could be life threatening! 2. Hiking equipment – What to bring? This primarily depends on how many days you plan to spend on your trip, where do you plan to sleep and what time of year is it. You should also consider how many people will be present. If you plan to sleep in the house, cottage, log cabin, mountain home, etc., then you should not carry a tent and sleeping bags. Otherwise, that equipment is inevitable, but your luggage will be much bigger and heavier. In hiking, we must be thorough on what are the things to bring, it will be helpful if we will be bringing these essential items Map   Compass Water Extra Food Rain Gear and Extra Clothes Fire-starters or Matches First-aid Kit Army Knife or Multi-Purpose Tool Flashlight and Batteries Sunscreen and Sunglasses Footwear Hiking Poles These identified essentials are necessary for a successful hike. It does not only prepare you for the possible dangers but it will be your main weapon for the whole trip itself so that you can enjoy your escapade. Certainly, one of the most, if not the most important piece of equipment is hiking boots. Next important part of hiking equipment is the backpack. The size of the backpack is chosen depending on the situation. Don’t forget to bring hiking sticks, as they will ease your way through the mountain. Other important hiking equipment to highlight would be a cap and gloves. Sunglasses with UV filter, protective cream with high UV factor, and a map. Forget the map, you will find yourself wandering around like a lost sheep. 3. Orientation You should know how to use a compass. Sometimes that dictates a crucial moment between life and death. You’ve probably heard stories about people who got lost in the wild because they are not oriented which they cannot determine the direction of their movement. It is extremely easy to stray from the path, especially in adverse weather conditions. Don’t think it only happens to beginners. Experienced hikers can get lost too. 4. Picking the right camping spot At first glance, it may seem easy, but choosing a suitable place for camping can be a big problem.  Placing Your Tent: put it in a place that is dry, protected from the wind, has trees near it, and is at least 2 miles away from the swamp. It is desirable to camp in the proximity of water.  Avoid Rocky Grounds: avoid places with dense vegetation, and places populated by rodents. In the mountains, you should watch out for landslides of rocks, snow and blizzard  5. Food and water It is not so difficult to find water in nature. You can obtain the topographic map with marked sources or you can get the information from the local population. The real challenge is how to be confident that the water is drinkable. We found that some of the best ways to ensure clean water is to understanding some of the best ways to purify water. As for the food, you should take a sufficient amount of carbohydrates like fruits, grains, milk, and bread. Carbohydrates provide energy to our bodies and they, usually, come in the form of sugar. It is, also, good to bring some chocolate or glucose sweets which can quickly restore your energy. If you are hunting for meat and need to kill the bacteria before consumption, it is imperative that you either know how to start a fire or invest in some of the best camping stove. 6. Learn how to start a fire If you don’t know how to start a fire, you should definitely learn. Everyone likes sitting by the campfire, singing your favorite songs or talking about funny life events. A campfire provides us with light, warmth, and heat for cooking. So let us make sure to find a good spot for it. 7. Bring a cell phone You should always start your trip with a fully charged battery and use it only in an emergency or life-threatening situation. Take not that bringing a mobile phone for a hiking trip is a must. Signal Reception: The signal received may be too weak to send a text message or call someone. It would, therefore, be advisable to carry a spare battery.  Phone Placement: The mobile phone should be kept in the inside pocket of a bag and will only be used for...

The post Top 13 Hiking Tips for Beginners appeared first on Null & Full.

Encouraged by the previous adventure in Mount Civetta, we decided to continue our journey and stay overnight in another refugee. We had one day off for a bad weather and charming meeting with friends who came to visit us. It left time to plan another adventure. Soon, we decided to explore the part of the Dolomites called Sasso Piatto and Sasso Lungo. A few years ago we visited this massif climbing it from the west and Val Duron but this time we scheduled it differently. The booking As this was the peak of the season we decided to book a bed in the refugee in advance. I would like to encourage you to do the very same thing. Obviously, the refugee should always host you even if they give you only a floor to sleep on but we were a group of five and didn’t want to risk. When we called, a lady told us there are five posts left and we gladly booked them. The traffic Next day, in the early morning, we took the car and drove from our tranquil valley called Valle del Biois, to Passo Sella. This was not a long way but with the heavy traffic in Val di Fassa, it took us as long as two hours to arrive! That’s a lot of time! So again, you should pick up off season months, when you have a choice. We found parking slot and waited in a line for an old fashion cableway car from Passo Sella to Rifugio Demetz, at 2685 masl. The weather was chilly and sunny. The hike Along the crowd, we followed the path down. The panorama was amazing. This particular part of the massif is all about rocks and sand. If you enjoy a very rough and unforgiving terrain, Sasso Piatto should be your next destination. A very interesting detail of this trek is that it starts downhill. The beginning was rough mainly because of the crowds. There were people of all abilities and skills, including small children who needed extra care from their parents. Soon, the crowd turned into a line. After half an hour, though, the path was less crowded and in about 45 minutes we arrived in the refugee called Vicenza, at 2256 masl. Luckily, we got a table inside and had a quick lunch. The whole facility, including the terrace, was full of people. Further north We continued our hike and followed the path downhill. It turned west and soon we started to walk around the west part of the massif. The path leads further through a picturesque meadows full of brown-and-white cows, who looked totally happy. Climbing up, we arrived at a large plateau with a lovely view towards Alpi di Siusi. This was a perfect place for a short break before the final stage of out trek. The next part of our walk was one of the most beautiful paths in the Dolomites, and at the same time, one of the the easiest one. Green hills, grey rocks, and small streams, all shined in a mild sun, making the walk carefree and relaxing. Rifugio Sasso Piatto After three hours in total, we arrived in the refugee. Rifugio Sasso Piatto, at 2301 masl, is one of the most beautiful ones that I have ever slept in. It is modern, well kept and very well organised. We got the key to our room quite quickly and were guided to a shoe room. We got our crocs and followed to the rooms. Wooden floor, large windows, new beds and clean bathrooms welcomed us. Also, the views from a comfortable common room were magnificent. This refugee is highly recommended for the night, especially to someone who has never done it before. Back home After a delicious dinner, we had a peaceful night and woke up relaxed. We had a short breakfast and started our return home. Along the way from Rifugio Sasso Piatto to Passo Sella, there are as many as three other refugees. First, a small wooden hut called Sandro Pertini, at 2300 masl. Last time we were there off season it was closed, but this time, we finally entered and had a warm tea. The weather was chilly so it was most appreciated. This part of the walk was pleasant due to the absence of other tourists. The silence was overwhelming. We could fully enjoy and appreciate the luxury of solitude that only the high mountains can give. After half an hour, we arrived in another refugee called Rifugio Friedrich-August 2398 masl. Large building seen from the distance welcomed us with the incredible smell of freshly baked sweets. Our Italian friends could not resist the smell and ate one bombolone each. The last half hour was a light walk down to Passo Sella where a luxury hotel opens its door to all. It is called Passo Sella Resort (2180 masl). The trekking around Sasso Lungo is doable in one day. We decided to split the hike in two days to get a profound experience of the Dolomites. I must say, it was truly enjoyable. A rich experience that I would recommend to anyone, including the beginners.  

The post The Dolomites, an adventure appeared first on Null & Full.

It looks like this spring has been a series of weekend retreats. As the writing of my book occupies the major part of my weeks I find a few free days to enjoy the weather. Last weekend I spent in Tatra, the highest Polish mountains, located in the south of the country. This was a great weekend because my Italian friends joined me and we walked together. It was their first time in the Polish highest peaks. Here is a review of our stay so you could plan your visit there. A weekend retreat – the itinerary This was a classic weekend retreat with two extra days. We met on Saturday in Kraków where my friends arrived by plane. We drove to Zakopane and stayed for the night in a hotel with a breathtaking panorama over the mountain range. We left on Sunday morning and climbed to Wiktorówki for a mass, and continued our walk up to the valley called Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich (Five Lakes Valley). We stayed overnight in the refugee there, hoping for the crowds to vanish. On Monday morning, we continued our walk up to Świstówka and walked down to Morskie Oko, one of the most popular places in the mountains with overwhelming crowds. We walked down back to Polanica, from where we took the bus and returned to Zakopane. We stayed for the night in Kraków, from where my friends went back to Italy the next day. Overall we walked 25 kilometers, with the drop of over 3000 meters: 1500 meters up and 1500 down. The Tatra Mountains The High Tatras is a special place for me. Not only I visited these parts of the world with my Dad when I was a child but also I was visiting it regularly as a teenager. I felt always a strong connection to the snowed peaks and rocks, small lakes and cascades. I have many wonderful memories from the trails there, both in spring and winter time. The mountain range is pretty modest and the moment you climb up to 1500-1700 m.a.s.l. you can see almost all peaks at the same time (it’s only about 175 km²). There is a National Park established over fifty years ago and the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The crowds The modest surface of our highest mountains results in crowds. In order to avoid people you should probably visit this place in late autumn or early spring but it might be risky due to the difficult weather conditions. It is good to avoid May and June as the school trips tend to visit Morskie Oko making the noise and the mess all over the place. The best way to escape the tourists is to go up, where only a few people go, stay in a refugee overnight and walk even higher the next day. The Weekend We had a great time, no doubts about it! The weather was splendid even though the forecast was very pessimistic. There was not even one drop of rain and two days were full of sun. We were lucky to bring with us summer outfit, hats, and shawls to cover the skin. We had a few snack brakes with an amazing panorama in front of us. The Controversy One of the most famous tracks in the Tatra Mountains is the Eagle Path. There is an ongoing debate whether the path should be closed down due to the recurring deaths of the inexperienced climbers or whether it should be left as it is. I walked the Eagle Path a few years back and it is rather demanding. I would not suggest you to walk it unless you are experienced, have no fear of heights, are able to follow the via ferrata and can handle the extreme fatigue.  

The post Tatra Mountains: a weekend retreat with friends appeared first on Null & Full.

Read the previous episode. Fluminimaggiore The location of my apartment was very unfortunate. It was located along one of the streets that cut the town east – west. Even though it was not the main street, the traffic was pretty heavy. It did not bother me during the day, but the late nights and early evenings were particularly difficult to enjoy. In the late evenings, some youngsters trapped in this city drove their scooters just outside my windows. Over and over again. Luckily, the town acknowledged siesta thus between 1:30 pm and 5:30 pm the silence cut all noises. I guess the level of the noise would be easier to deal with if only I did not normally live in a small and very quiet village. Apart of the traffic the walls and floors of this old house were exceptionally thin. In the night, I had an impression there were people in my room who were talking, laughing, playing cards and, when the booze finished, they were snoring. This was so loud! This was not a surprise then that I often woke up early and went out of the apartment to hanging around a bit in the early morning. First couple of days I was sleeping better than during the rest of my stay because of being exhausted by the journey and by the heat. Unfortunately, after three days I was struggling with falling asleep every night. I wonder if other travellers and tourists has the same problem. Morning My favourite moment of every morning was 7:00 am. At 7:00 am the bell from the church rings loudly announcing the day officially has started. And suddenly, every sound rises its volume: the town wakes racily up. The shop around the corner opens its door with a smash, the trash collector throws glass to his car with a sharp noise and the dog starts barking at everything he sees. The bell continues ringing: a melody of Ave Maria announces that the day has started and that everything that happens today will praise the Lord. After 7:00 am the bars are open and flooded with the residents. All of them needs a modest encouragement to start the day. Coffee is one of their daily treats. A quick check of the lottery raises their blood pressure too. Worst case scenario, a glass of cold beer wakes them up. The town in the early morning with trash vehicle collecting glass and scooters driving around makes a curious impression. The poverty, visible at every corner is mixed with a rush of the residents eager to start working before the heat of the day hits them. There are dogs with no owners hanging around and the cleaning ladies sweeping the streets. When a vehicle collecting glass takes another load, the people in the bar shout like if their team scored in the game. I am not sure where does their enthusiasm come from. There is a hairdresser just in front of my temporary house. It opens at 7:30 am with a loud greeting by the owner to passing people and opening the sunblind. The frequent customers start coming. The door is open and a conversation sparkles. A loud greeting, a noise made by hairdryer and the scissors cutting hair is mixed into an everyday melody of this town. All windows and door along the street is open: people try to catch some fresh air before the heat come. The bell rings again. It’s 8:45 am and all should be working by now. The sun will silence everyone after the noon. The heat will be unbearable by then. It warms the walls, stairs, roofs and air so the main effort of all resident will focus on keeping their houses cool. They will close the door and the windows, they will keep drinking cold water and eating fruits. They will not rise their voices and before it’s 1:30 pm all will be silent again. A small town routine Everyone has a small garden here. This is the secret method of flourishing despite the odds. We saw hundreds of small gardens outside the town while driving here and there and they are a prove that all depends on water. If a small field is watered the vegetation is as lush as in the tropical garden but if the water is scarce everything is burnt out. The main task here is therefore watering the garden. In the mornings and early afternoons, the local farmers try to sell their fruits and vegetables in small booths along the main road. Sometimes in the town there are door opened and few fruits are being sold there, directly from the farmers. It strings the process of production and consumption to the minimum. From the garden to the table the distance is really short. So green and eco! People here are nice. We get often questioned about our stay in Fluminimaggiore and almost all locals ask whether we go to the beach today. It was weird at the beginning and I thought we have some beach related objects or dress that would suggest our intention of spending time at the beach. When I heard the same question again I thought there must be a pattern. And there is. The locals are convinced that the beach is the only attraction for tourists and to keep them happy all you need to do is to send them to the beach. Thus, when we declared we have no intention of spending our holiday at the beach they looked at us in a suspicious way. Fortunately, we speak Italian, which always helps. Celebrations And so the life goes rather slowly here. It has a certain charm, though, of a tiny place where everybody knows each other. It seems like they all know their limits, which includes even a quantity of bread baked daily. When I go to the bakery after 10:00 am there is very little left. Every day the same people buy the same things and thus a baker has an easy task...

The post Daily Life in Sardinia appeared first on Null & Full.

If you ever come to the Dolomites you must drive this road! Route 242 (SS 242, Strada Statale) is one of the most beautiful roads I have ever seen. Moreover, you can enjoy amazing views both on foot and through the window of your car. The Italian Dolomites are well organized, the infrastructure is impressive and you will find visiting them delightful! And SO easy! If you are a skier you should know so called Sellaronda – a very long ski circuit, literally around Gruppo Sella. One of our daily trips started in Passo Sella. This is a marvelous place with breathtaking views. We drove from Canazei, where we stayed at AirBnB, and drove up to Passo Sella located at 2180 masl. The pass (or saddle, if you like) crosses two large massifs: the first is Gruppo Sella and the second is Sasso Piatto. There are summits that rise above 3000 meters above sea level in both massifs. Thus, the pass is really beautiful because you see two large valleys below and rocky peaks above. Either driving through the pass or walking the trails from the pass up to the mountains is a pleasure. The driving in this part of Italy is a bit demanding. You need to be focused on the road and be skillful enough to drive through numerous 180-degree turns. There are many motorcycles driving these roads so you need to be extra careful. We picked up a trail number 526 with the intention of arriving at refuge called Vicenza, at the other side of the massif. It all started nicely, from an interesting rock formation called Rocky City (Citta dei Sassi). The path was very comfortable there, and some parts are even suitable to walk it with a stroller. Further up, there is a nice refuge called Emilio Comici, situated in a marvelous spot, looking at the Gruppo Sella. You can see the whole massif from there, in its majesty and beauty. As this was out of the season, the refuge was closed. There were some people doing spring cleaning, but we could not enter, nor eat anything. This is the downside of visiting the Dolomites out of season. Therefore, we continued our walk towards the next refuge. As we picked up a path close to the slope we had a long and bumping way to go. Apart of the distance, the difficulty was to cross every couple of hundred meters a sort of little hills created by the numerous scree. As a result, we got tired quickly, there was no sign of the refuge in our sight and when we came to a crossroads we saw a storm coming from the other side of the valley. In this circumstances, we decided to go back rather than continue to the shelter. On our way back we picked an alternative path so we could meditate the beauty of these peaks of Sasso Piatto from a distance. All in all, this was a fabulous day, with nice sunny weather and fantastic views. Highly recommended, especially to the fans of epic views of rocky summits.  

The post Scenic route of the Dolomites appeared first on Null & Full.