I rarely visit the UK for tourism. It’s been ages since I worked there. I treat London as a transfer city and I sometimes change planes there. I’ve never been to Cornwall before and my only visit lasted no more than 12 hours and yet I consider it one of the most valuable travel lessons learnt. The first thought that comes to mind is: how on earth you are able to learn anything in such a short time? And I must say that I am the first to be skeptical so let me tell you my story. I went to Cornwall for one reason: to accompany my niece. She is minor so she needed an adult in order to travel. So we went together to London and continued our journey further west. We finally reached our destination: a small town in Cornwall where she spent a week with a British family to develop her linguistic skills. Before I left her I spent the entire day with the family who lives there and this was one of the best days in my life as a traveler. First, we received a warm welcome at the airport despite a horrible weather and a 45 minutes delay. Kate was waiting for us and although we have never met before we recognized each other in a second. We started a conversation that lasted until evening. She took us home where we met the whole family: her husband Andy and their four kids. And what a family they have! Do you know the feeling of being at home away from home? This is how we felt when we entered their house. We had a quick bite (scones with cream) and went for a walk. In a pouring rain, we visited a spectacular site: rocky cliffs and old mine remains. We had ice creams, we watched surfers, and we talked. Despite the weather, it was fun! Being with them was like a SPA for our souls. Gentle people who simply care for each other and for their guests made this day memorable. Through a conversation, laugh, endless stories and the way they treated us we felt like we wanted to stay in Cornwall forever. They told us about their everyday life, school, work, friends, family life and entertainment provided by this small corner of the world, with a true delight. Happy people living in a lovely place! I had an impression that they discovered the most important secret of life: being happy in a place where you are and at the time that is given to you. Eating dinner together with this family was a treat! I had to leave the very same day but I felt I learnt a lot about life, people and traveling. Cornwall became a land full of peace, joy, and happiness. Even if it was raining all day I remembered it as the sunniest part of the world. I felt blessed and happy that my niece stayed with them for the whole week, having the best holiday ever. I can’t wait to meet them again. Lesson learnt? It is not always possible to stay in one place for a long time for a variety of reasons but when it is not possible focus on people. They are one of the best “medium” of culture. They will tell you more about life in a place than a guidebook and they will grab your hand and show you the best places on earth: a happy home full of love. It’s priceless!  

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The third day was the most difficult, the longest and the most rewarding. After two days of light walks, we decided we were ready to pursue the long itinerary that brought us up as high as 2770 masl. It all started with a bus ride from Campitello to Vigo di Fassa. We tested the public transportation of Val di Fassa for you. In the early morning, we got pretty scared when we discovered that the bus stop in downtown Campitello is full of tourists. I counted them and they were more than 50 and I thought that the bus is too small to bring them all to the destination. I was wrong. The bus was late of about 10 minutes but when it arrived I realized how well Val di Fassa is prepared. All of the tourists got on board. The service of selling ticket was equally efficient: a young man crossed the bus selling the tickets to all tourists. He also served as tourist information reminding each passenger where he or she should get off. By the time we arrived at our destination everybody was served. The bus services in Val di Fassa is a great alternative to cars. Not only it is a green solution but it saves you money for the parking place and it allows you to start and end your itinerary in a different place! We walked to the cableway car and bought the tickets. Up at Ciampedie we started our fast walk only to discover that in less than an hour we arrived at Rifugio Vajolet at 2244 masl. It was fast and pleasant. Many tourists followed this path but we were fast enough to left them far behind. We further continued to Passo Principe and in 1h 59min we were up there, at the altitude of 2599 masl. Quite a few other tourists were having their second breakfast there, in the hut, and we joined them and sit on the small terrace with breathtaking views. We had a warm tea and after a short break, we continued our trek. Next, we climbed at the highest point of the path, at the level of 2770 masl. The surrounded peaks looked magnificent at the background of the clear blue sky. Even though the weather forecast was pessimistic we unexpectedly enjoyed the sun. The temperature was about 9C and the air was brisk. From the pass, the way was all downhill. First, we crossed a completely dry valley, full of white rocks and with no vegetation whatsoever. At the end of the valley, we discovered a small emerald pond. The size of the pond is strictly related to the quantity of snow melted in springtime. This year it was modest. Just above the pond, we saw the next Refugee called Antermoia and we gladly relaxed eating our lunch. It took us 3 hours to climb there and the view was worth every minute. The refugee itself was interesting: there is a new owner who completely renovated the place. He installed the solar panels and made the interior looked modern. The staff was friendly and the food was obviously delicious. A wonderful reward for the 3h climb! An hour later we continued our journey. The view towards Sasso Piatto, Val Udai and Val de Dona were fabulous. Crossing kilometres downhill brought us full immersion in the green pastures of the Dolomites. There were very few people who followed our footsteps, therefore, we fully enjoyed the path and the views. The way back via Val Duron was a bit long but it was easy and we arrived at our accommodation fully satisfied. The whole itinerary covered 20km, it took us almost 6 hours to walk it, excluding brakes and lunch. Travel tip: watch the weather forecast carefully and in the case of the sudden change go back to safety as soon as possible. Itinerary day 3: Campitello – Vigo di Fassa (by bus, ticket: 1,80 EUR) – Rifugio Ciampedie 1998 masl (by cableway car, one way ticket: 9EUR) – Rifugio Gardeccia 1950 masl- Rifugio Vajolet 2244 masl – Rifugio Passo Principe 2599 masl- Passo Antermoia 2770 masl – Rafigio Antermoia 2497 masl- Val Duron – Rifugio Micheluzzi – Campitello. Read about day 1 itinerary Ciampedie here. Read about day 2 itinerary Sasso Piatto here.  

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It was the third year in a row when I visit a mountain massif called Sasso Piatto. This is a beautiful part of the Dolomites thus I am not surprised that people tend to go back there, including me. After the first day of our short holiday spent in Ciampac, we enjoyed a light walk in Sasso Piatto. We took a cableway car for a variety of reasons: first, to relax before the third and the hardest day, second, to fully appreciate our location in walking distance from the cableway car, and first to go back to a well-known site and make the walk as easy as possible. A path from Col Rodella to Rifugio Sasso Piatto is one of the most frequented treks in the Dolomites. It is flat, easy and it offers spectacular views, therefore, hundreds of people decide to walk it on daily basis. The weather was not the best one, however, we enjoyed the chill wind and lack of sun. Many other tourists picked up this location even if the views were covered by the clouds. We watched our previous day itinerary from the distance which was a great experience. I’ve finally noticed a magnificent green massif in front of the Costabella chain and it was truly impressive. In less than an hour, we arrived at Rifugio Sasso Piatto to enjoy a hot tea and a great local dessert: strudel. It was full of tourists just as we were told a few days before by phone. Its interior design, however, is beautiful so we still had a great time and after a short break, we left the table for other tourists who kept coming and coming. The part of our itinerary downhill to Val Duron was much less crowded. We first crossed a small mountain hut called Malga del Sasso Piatto that was being repaired the last year. It opened this summer and next to a beautiful mountain restaurant the owner constructed a bread stove. The smell of a fresh bread is for me one of the most beautiful smells in the world, therefore, the view of fresh bread laying there on the wooden table was stunning. The next stage of the trek was full of small marmots, big cows and horned goats. In a total loneliness, we enjoyed the unspoiled nature. We felt light and happy which was exactly what we went after. The way back to the accommodation was easy and relaxing. TRAVEL TIP: if you plan to walk a path in a proximity to any cableway car start your journey as soon as possible, preferably with the very first run (8:30 in our case). The itinerary of day 2: Campitello – Col Rodella 2398 masl (by cableway car, ticket: 11 EUR) – Rifugio Fridrich August 2298 masl – Rifugio Sandro Pertini 2300 masl – Rifugio Sasso Piatto 2300 masl -Malga del Sasso Piatto 2256 masl – Rifugio Micheluzzi 1860 masl – Val Duron – Campitello. Read about day 1 itinerary Ciampac here. Read about day 3 itinerary Antermoia here.  

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For obvious reasons, travelling off season brings you many benefits. Not only the destination is less crowded and cheaper but also it offers you unpredicted weather conditions which make the journey adventurous. I personally prefer off season travels but sometimes, out of a variety of reasons, we are forced to make choices and this time I just had to be in Italy on a particular day at the precise time. As a result, a short holiday in the Dolomites happened in the middle of peak season. Here is a story how I survived peak season in the Dolomites. I spent three days on the dirt path in the high parts of the mountains and brought you marvellous photos from this wonderful UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Accommodation At the beginning of my holiday planning, I was determined to stay only in the mountain huts along the so called Via Alta delle Dolomiti which is a multi-day trekking across the Dolomites. I phoned to a few of the mountain shelters to book my stay only to discover they were all fully booked. Naturally, each mountain hut will accept guests even if they give you only a mattress and a small piece of the floor but you still need to pay for this doubtful ‘comfort’.  The vision of a lonely mattress at the end of the long corridor sounded less exciting than I expected so I thought that I should rethink my holiday plan. Flexibility is good. Fortunately, my husband had a similar impression and together we decided to find an accommodation in one of the villages in Val di Fassa. This time it was Campitello and a wonderful Chalet Marcora, a family run small and comfortable place. A beautiful interior design, high-quality abundant breakfasts and friendly staff made our stay pleasant. From Campitello we had all trekking paths at our fingertips. Day 1: Ciampac We started our first day in nature quite early. It was wonderfully chilly with a temperature of 12C. A glorious sunny day made our wake up an easy task. We left our chalet at 8:15 a.m. and followed the path along the stream towards Fontanazzo. From a crossroads near the wooden bridge, we climbed up to enjoy spectacular views after 1h 30min. The view opened up and we admired Catinaccio massif, Sasso Piatto and Sella Group. We saw them all at the same time which was thrilling. The path followed up, crossed green meadows of the Val de Crepa full of happy cows and brought us up to the pass Pian de Selle at the level of 2185 masl. We had our first break at the pass, looking at the majestic mountain chains in front of our eyes. From the pass, we also saw our target: Rifugio Ciampac located on the magnificent background of high peak Sas de Roca (2618 masl). We went down to the chalet and we had a lovely lunch there in a jolly company of construction workers who were renovating the other two huts: Baita Valeruz and Tobia del Jagher. The owner was charming and the food was great. Out of the window, we could the the Sella Group which was lovely. After lunch, we followed the steep road towards Canazei which in winter transforms into a ski slope. It is so steep that only expert skiers can ski there and watching in the middle of the summer convinced me about it. We continued the downhill trek passing huge lorries that were carrying up construction materials which was a downside of this part of our trek. All in all, we came back to our accommodation happy and tired. TRAVEL TIP: the paths located far from cable railway and funiculars are always less crowded even in peak seasons. The itinerary of day 1: Campitello – Fontanazzo 1395 masl – Val de Crepa – Pian de Selle 2185 masl – Rifugio Ciampac 2170 masl – Canazei – Campitello. Read about day 2: Sasso Piatto. Read aboud day 3: Antermoia.  

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Since I started travelling I have always been eager to visit my own country. This year I drove far east to visit Podlasie, one of the most beautiful Polish regions, for the first time. Here is a short summary of my journey. The idyllic Janów Podlaski Janów Podlaski is a small village in Podlasie and it is widely known for its Arabian horses breeding programme and horse auctions. The horse stud established in 1817 gathers horse experts from all over the world. I’m not a huge fan of horses thus for me this was only an idyllic village in Podlasie. A few kilometres south from the world wide renown horse stud we found a perfect location for a short and peaceful stay. It’s called Pensjonat Uroczysko Zaborek and it is located in a beautiful spot. Recently renovated old wooden buildings are available for guests along with vast green terrains of the forest, small ponds and meadows. We were lucky to stay overnight in an old beautifully renovated windmill. A small apartment at the top floor was spectacular. Inside of the living room, there was a huge windmill wheel converted into a table. Also, small windows and wooden floors made a huge impression of being close to the past of this regions. Full immersion in the green landscape was at our fingertips. It is hard to admit but even in such an idyllic place, you can experience a bad luck. There were other guests at the property and unluckily for us they were having a wedding party. They were loud and extremely disturbing until 3:00 a.m. There was no chance to sleep sound so I can’t say we fully appreciated the location. The next day the owner apologised us and gave us a small hand made gift to make a good impression. We were not fully satisfied with our stay but the service was friendly so I’d say we could stay there again in the future. The Holy Hill of Grabarka The next day we drove further north along the east border of Poland. We were aware that the Podlasie region is known for its religious and cultural diversity and we wanted to experience that, therefore, we drove to a holy hill for Orthodox pilgrims called Grabarka. It is a sanctuary with a small wooden Eastern Orthodox Church constructed on a top of a hill. There is also a wellspring with water that is believed to save people from dying out of extremely contagious disease cholera. The local story says that people who came to the place carrying wooden crosses on their back and drank water from this wellspring were saved. Since then the hill is full of crosses, big and small ones, and people still carry them as a penance or supplication to God. The wellspring is located at the foothills of the mountain and all pilgrims can draw water from it. The UNESCO site If you’re interested in wild nature you’ve probably heard about Białowieża: the ultimate wilderness of Europe. The national park (Białowieski Park Narodowy) established almost hundred years ago protects large parts of this wild forest. To all Polish and some foreigners, Białowieża is synonymous to European Bison, the biggest European mammal that still lives there. Thanks to a collaboration of state institutions and private companies not only the wilderness is well protected but also a breeding programme of the Bisons is well developed. The tourists can watch Bisons in a sort of semi natural habitat which is quite impressive. Religious diversity of Podlasie: The Eastern Orthodox and the Muslims Poland is known as a religious country with the majority of Christian Catholics. Out of historical reasons, the eastern part of the country is more diverse. Being highly influenced by our eastern neighbours who are almost entirely Orthodox, Podlasie kept its multi religious character. The houses of small villages and towns gather around Eastern Orthodox churches. Further, the big towns like Supraśl and Białystok have their own modern churches. We watched the small wooden churches from the outside as they were closed during the day. We also visited a big Eastern Orthodox Church in Supraśl which was deeply disappointing. We also visited a big Eastern Orthodox Church in Supraśl which was deeply disappointing. It was mainly due to a hostile attitude of the guide who let us wait long in a cold passage before we entered and then he said absolutely nothing about the buildings we visited and the orthodox religion itself. We even witnessed that he made fun of a tourist who asked some basic questions about the Orthodox faith. Moreover, the churches we watched were recently constructed so their architecture and their interior was not very impressive. There is even one wooden mosque in a village of Kruszyniany that serves to the local community of Tatars. The Folk Music Going deeper into the cultural diversity we eventually arrived in Supraśl and listened to a concert of folk music from the area. The artists Karolina Cicha and Bart Pałyga played a wonderful concert presented to the audience an exotic music of the Tatars. We listened to their band a few years earlier at the Poznan Ethnoport Festival and they developed their repertoire even further. We enjoyed it immensely and through the music our journey was complete. There is so much more to see and we’ve already decided to go back to Podlasie one day.  

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It’s not the first time I had a chance to skiing in the Dolomites but the two weeks I spent in Colmean were truly spectacular. The most beautiful part of this story is the people: Adriano and Maria Rosa. They are the owners of the place we rented and they hosted us like their own family. We felt like at home and this is the reason why we had such a great time. If you consider skiing in the Dolomites their AirBnB is the best place to start. The Snow Storm The day we arrived in Colmean the snowstorm hit. For weeks before our arrival, there was no such violent event this winter year so I guess we can call ourselves lucky. The funny thing was that even twenty kilometres from the village there was no snow whatsoever and it was even raining! No surprises though, that we did not believe in the snow before we approached Passo San Pellegrino. At the altitude of two thousand meters, the rain turned into snow and the storm started. As long as we descended the car could handle it but the moment we started the final ascent it did not. We got blocked by the heavy piles of snow in the middle of a tiny road. It was dark, cold and really wet. We felt drained out and quite desperate. Adriano, the owner, phoned us a couple of times and promised to wait along the way to assist us in the final stretch. We went back for help to the nearest bar. A local guy who worked there mounted the chains but the snowfall was excessive and we lost them straightaway. Again, we went back to the bar and the other guests who had their aperitivo there advised we should take an alternative longer route. I can tell you that we felt much better when the local people offered us their help and support. This is the magic of the true journey: the good and sympathy you experience. Therefore, we drove uphill an alternative route and reached the bridge where Adriano was waiting for us, covered with snow. The car did not make it as the uphill road was steep so we left the it at the parking space, advised by Adriano. We took our luggage and walked the final 300 meters. The warm welcome by Maria Rosa and Adriano rose our spirit. Their wooden house was a true bliss and we felt really well in that dark and wet evening. The snow falling and watched from the warm and cosy room was fantastic! Skiing in the Sun Next morning we watched the landscape covered with deep snow and it was spectacular! All peaks around the valley were white, the trees as well and above this white quilt there was a blue sky. Out of our balcony, the view of the valley was breathtaking. Moreover, the sun melted the ice and snow on the road so we could freely move. An epic journey through the winter landscape began. We drove through Caviola and Falcade with our eyes wide open. What a beauty! The view of the mountains in winter time is one of the most beautiful things in the world! We spent next couple of days skiing in the ski area of San Pellegrino. They are part of Dolomiti Superski. The tracks are always well prepared and surprisingly there were not that many people skiing. We were lucky to have three sunny days in a row. The Locals On Monday evening we went out with the owners: Adriano and Maria Rosa. We had a super tasty pizza and we talked till late. We discovered common passions and delight. They shared stories about the geology of the Dolomites which sparked my interest. They asked a lot of questions about Poland thus we could act as ambassadors of our beautiful country again. We felt amazingly well in the apartment we had. The carefully renovated old barn with a modern touch was comfortable and cosy. Whether is was sitting on the balcony and taking a sunbath or cooking a nice meal it was really cool. Not only the views were spectacular but also the location for all skiers is just brilliant. The white crisp slopes are only twenty minutes away! Following the advice of Adriano we went for an afternoon walk in the valley called Val Venegia. Along the way, we passed a forest where the wood for famous violins are taken from, including Stradivarius. The valley itself is a delight. The view for the mountain chain San Martino di Castrozza is amazing. The deep snow only magnified our admiration. It was also a very easy trail and even in the snow the retired people can take it. I can’t wait to go back in the Dolomites. Whether in the summer or in winter this place is gorgeous!  

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A winter stay in Valpolicella would be incomplete without a few visits in the local restaurants. There is a lot to choose from! Even if the AirBnB house we rented is located in a small village there is a variety of places that serve a high-quality food. Italy is famous for its food and sometimes you might get lost is a variety of names. You might wonder what is the difference between ‘osteria‘, ‘trattoria‘ and ‘restaurant’ thus here is a simple explanation. Osteria The least formal of all places that offer you food in Italy. It sometimes is run by a family and offers you a place at the common table, shared with other guests. The food is always fresh, prepared from the local ingredients and often there is no menu: the owner of a waiter tells you what is served today and you choose from it. It serves wines, often produced by the owners (‘produzione propria‘), brought to the table is carafe rather than a bottle. Recently there is a new trend to make the osterie more attractive by using a modern design or hosting ‘aperitivo‘ in late afternoons. The one I visited here, in Negrar, was called Osteria del Bugiardo and it was fabulous! Trattoria Less formal than a restaurant more formal then osteria. It always serves local food but the main focus is on wines. The food is always simple, the choice is limited and the customers are in major part locals. It has been always an important place for the meetings of the residents and a common space for exchanging the ideas and gossips. Restaurant Obviously, there is a huge variety of the formality here. There are exclusive restaurants that serve a high quality, expensive food but there are also those less expensive and well connected with the area. It is true especially in Italy where many people visit a restaurant with their families, friends and colleagues. It is worth checking with the locals which restaurant is good but if you can’t do it just pass the restaurant in the evening (20:00-21:00) and judge it out of the number of cars parked in front of it. If the restaurant is not in the city centre, next to the famous touristic spots, this strategy works just fine. Especially in the countryside: good restaurants are always full of locals! Bar or pasticceria Pssst! I know that there’s a lot of people who love sweets thus I would strongly encourage you to visit bar or pasticceria in the morning. The best place to start a day in Italy is the one that bakes their sweets in situ, in their backyard. Fresh, warm sweet brioche in the morning will lift your spirit!  

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I’m pretty sure that you’ve heard about Valpolicella at least once in your lifetime. It is the name of a zone full of gentle hills near Verona and it gave a name to the Valpolicella wine that people appreciate around the world. I am not a wine expert but since I lived in Italy I tasted a variety of white and red wines. I participated in a wine tasting before and I am probably an average wine fan: love it with whole my heart. When we left the Dolomites, we decided to expand our holiday and stay for a little bit longer in Italy. Verona and Valpolicella seemed to be just perfect. Last week, we participated in two wine tasting and here is my review, so you could pick up your own way. Valpolicella Valpolicella Classico is made from five grape varieties: Rondinella, Corvina, Corvinione, Oseleta and Molinara. For an amateur, it is pretty hard to distinguish the grapes seen on the grapevines but to the experts, this is a piece of cake. The location of Valpolicella is stunning and just perfect for wine cultivation. From the top of the hills on a sunny day, you can see the Adriatic Sea. The quality of the soil is outstanding as it is of a volcanic origin. Local microclimate brings a fresh breeze from the sea and from the nearby lake Garda. The cantina here is well ventilated which makes the drying process of grapes possible. Out of the variety of grapes grown in Valpolicella a series of red wines are produced: Valpolicella Classico, famous Amarone, sweet Recioto and Ripasso. Wine Tasting in Cantina Fratelli Vogadori Although we all prefer white wines, we could not miss the opportunity of wine tasting in Valpolicella. In a sunny afternoon, we started our tasting in a cantina called Fratelli Vogadori. We entered the building, crossed a cellar following the arrows and were seated at the table with five bottles or red wine. One of the owners was our guide. We got a list of wines that we should taste, bread with olive oil and a spittoon. One after another, the red wine filled our glasses and through the story told by one of the owners we did our best to taste vanilla, cherry, chocolate, and tobacco. Cherry was the easiest to spot. One of the wines we tasted was especially wonderful: it smelled fresh and fruity and after we tasted it, our mouths were full of vanilla. An amazing experience that involved not only our senses of taste and smell but also our memories. Our guide explained that what we sense in a wine depends on our personal experience and memories. We bought a few bottles of wine there and went back home completely satisfied. But this was not over. Next day we went to a different place and the wine tasting there was a totally different one. Wine Tasting in Tenuta Santa Maria Valverde After the first wine tasting in Valpolicella we expected a similar thing but we were completely wrong. This time, we got caught by the owners full of passion, joy and proud. We booked a wine tasting combined with lunch and arrived at noon, in a very hot day. The old buildings and well-ventilated garden welcomed us with desired fresh breeze. Ilaria and Nicola, a couple who owns the place, took us directly for a guided tour around their property. We started from a huge room dedicated to grapes drying process. All grapes, collected manually, are stored for at least 100 days from November to mid-February, depending on the weather and harvest. The room was empty but watching the wooden boxes we could imagine how hard it is to keep them safe from mold until they are ready for a fermentation process. Ilaria explained that each variety of grapes used in Valpolicella wine gives a different taste. Rondinella tastes like plums, Corvina and Corvinone like cherries, Molinara like green pepper, and Oseleta like mulberries. From the drying room, we went down to the cellar, where the smell of mold was overwhelming. Old wooden barrels and modern metal ones were laying there, working hard to produce the excellent wine. Ilaria, a charming woman who laughed a lot, explained the whole process of wine making, including all difficulties, obstacles, and unexpected events. Then, Nicola came and are told us a story of the family. His family has been making wine for the last three hundred years! The expertise in the matter is the air they breathe from the moment they were born. Fascinating. We finally got seated under the white umbrella in a tranquil green garden. The silence was only intermittent by the sound of cicada and gently running water. What a relaxing place! Nicola brought us the local cheese and sausages and the feast began. The taste of wines along with the local specialities was amazing but the final was mind blowing. To fully enjoy the last wine, Nicola brought a block of dark chocolate. It is impossible to describe how incredible it tasted. The whole experience was just fantastic! It took us more than three hours and we had to run before Ilaria showed us the grounds, which was a shame. The owners told us that we could stay with them until the evening and I think that next time I will dedicate the whole day to stay in this marvellous place. Which wine tasting to choose? These two wine tasting experiences were picked up randomly. I had no previous contact with any of these places nor asked for suggestions to any of my friends. Obviously, each of these places has their own way of showing the excellency of the Valpolicella wines. It is up to you, what you prefer. I’d say that I should probably go back to Santa Maria Valverde because of the whole experience. I think that I tasted not only the wine there but most of all, what this region and the family business is all about. I deeply appreciate the...

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I have recently visited Italy again. It’s been a while since my last visit in Rome. I forgot how hot and crowded it is in the middle of July. My first advice is this: visit Rome offseason! This is priceless! May or October are just perfect but this time, I had no choice as I participated in a meeting organised in Sacrofano, near Rome. Thus, here are my tips to all who visit Rome in peak season. The accommodation The best thing that had happened to us was our accommodation. Instead of a hotel or apartment in the centre of the Eternal City we chose a small hotel in Castel Gandolfo. There are at least three good reasons to do so: first, the location of this small town is strategic. The train connection is perfect! Second, its location at the Albano Lake provides a fresh breeze which, in the middle of the Italian summer, is priceless! And third, the town itself is interesting. Instead of fighting for a parking slot in Rome, dealing with the noise and unbearable warmth, I encourage you to pick up Castel Gandolfo. The train The train connection with Rome is not only reliable but most of all super comfortable. A modern air-conditioned train will bring you to the heart of the city (Rome Termini) in less than 45 minutes. The is ONE important issue, though. Before you go down to the train station you must buy a train ticket in one of the newspaper stands in the main square. Although the train station is quite big there are NO TICKETS. We didn’t know about it and we paid extra 5 EUR for every ticket bought. It’s not much but if you know that the price of the ticket is only 4,50 EUR then you see that this make sense. The town Castel Gandolfo is wonderful! After we spent one day in Rome we decided to stay in the town and explore more of its surroundings. As you probably know there is a residence of the popes here, which is the reason why it is so famous. Many of the previous popes spent their holidays here but the current one, Pope Francis, does not continue this tradition. The local people are not happy about it because the number of visitors decreased. For us, it was a great pleasure to talk about Polish popeJohn Paul II who was so attached to this place. He is still remembered by the locals. The first morning we came to Castel Gandolfo we visited the Papal Residence. The museum was very expensive (10 EUR) but we thought it was worth the money and our time. The exhibition is focused on the previous popes, their lives, contribution, and sometimes scandals. There are a few artefacts from Vatican, including a BMW of John Paul II. I really enjoyed the narration provided by audioguides. There were many things I didn’t know and the view from the terrace on the lake was just spectacular! All in all, I enjoyed it. Most of all, this small town is full of extremely nice people. There are good restaurants and pizzerias here so every evening you can eat in a different place. Castel Gandolfo is also famous for its artwork. The objects decorated by mosaics are so beautiful! It is a pure delight to watch the craftsmen at work! We felt totally relaxed when we were sitting on a terrace of the hotel in the late evening. The chilly wind from the lake was just fantastic! I would recommend this place to everyone who wants to visit Rome and still enjoy tranquillity and relax.  

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It looks like this spring has been a series of weekend retreats. As the writing of my book occupies the major part of my weeks I find a few free days to enjoy the weather. Last weekend I spent in Tatra, the highest Polish mountains, located in the south of the country. This was a great weekend because my Italian friends joined me and we walked together. It was their first time in the Polish highest peaks. Here is a review of our stay so you could plan your visit there. A weekend retreat – the itinerary This was a classic weekend retreat with two extra days. We met on Saturday in Kraków where my friends arrived by plane. We drove to Zakopane and stayed for the night in a hotel with a breathtaking panorama over the mountain range. We left on Sunday morning and climbed to Wiktorówki for a mass, and continued our walk up to the valley called Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich (Five Lakes Valley). We stayed overnight in the refugee there, hoping for the crowds to vanish. On Monday morning, we continued our walk up to Świstówka and walked down to Morskie Oko, one of the most popular places in the mountains with overwhelming crowds. We walked down back to Polanica, from where we took the bus and returned to Zakopane. We stayed for the night in Kraków, from where my friends went back to Italy the next day. Overall we walked 25 kilometers, with the drop of over 3000 meters: 1500 meters up and 1500 down. The Tatra Mountains The High Tatras is a special place for me. Not only I visited these parts of the world with my Dad when I was a child but also I was visiting it regularly as a teenager. I felt always a strong connection to the snowed peaks and rocks, small lakes and cascades. I have many wonderful memories from the trails there, both in spring and winter time. The mountain range is pretty modest and the moment you climb up to 1500-1700 m.a.s.l. you can see almost all peaks at the same time (it’s only about 175 km²). There is a National Park established over fifty years ago and the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The crowds The modest surface of our highest mountains results in crowds. In order to avoid people you should probably visit this place in late autumn or early spring but it might be risky due to the difficult weather conditions. It is good to avoid May and June as the school trips tend to visit Morskie Oko making the noise and the mess all over the place. The best way to escape the tourists is to go up, where only a few people go, stay in a refugee overnight and walk even higher the next day. The Weekend We had a great time, no doubts about it! The weather was splendid even though the forecast was very pessimistic. There was not even one drop of rain and two days were full of sun. We were lucky to bring with us summer outfit, hats, and shawls to cover the skin. We had a few snack brakes with an amazing panorama in front of us. The Controversy One of the most famous tracks in the Tatra Mountains is the Eagle Path. There is an ongoing debate whether the path should be closed down due to the recurring deaths of the inexperienced climbers or whether it should be left as it is. I walked the Eagle Path a few years back and it is rather demanding. I would not suggest you to walk it unless you are experienced, have no fear of heights, are able to follow the via ferrata and can handle the extreme fatigue.  

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