The third day was the most difficult, the longest and the most rewarding. After two days of light walks, we decided we were ready to pursue the long itinerary that brought us up as high as 2770 masl. It all started with a bus ride from Campitello to Vigo di Fassa. We tested the public transportation of Val di Fassa for you. In the early morning, we got pretty scared when we discovered that the bus stop in downtown Campitello is full of tourists. I counted them and they were more than 50 and I thought that the bus is too small to bring them all to the destination. I was wrong. The bus was late of about 10 minutes but when it arrived I realized how well Val di Fassa is prepared. All of the tourists got on board. The service of selling ticket was equally efficient: a young man crossed the bus selling the tickets to all tourists. He also served as tourist information reminding each passenger where he or she should get off. By the time we arrived at our destination everybody was served. The bus services in Val di Fassa is a great alternative to cars. Not only it is a green solution but it saves you money for the parking place and it allows you to start and end your itinerary in a different place! We walked to the cableway car and bought the tickets. Up at Ciampedie we started our fast walk only to discover that in less than an hour we arrived at Rifugio Vajolet at 2244 masl. It was fast and pleasant. Many tourists followed this path but we were fast enough to left them far behind. We further continued to Passo Principe and in 1h 59min we were up there, at the altitude of 2599 masl. Quite a few other tourists were having their second breakfast there, in the hut, and we joined them and sit on the small terrace with breathtaking views. We had a warm tea and after a short break, we continued our trek. Next, we climbed at the highest point of the path, at the level of 2770 masl. The surrounded peaks looked magnificent at the background of the clear blue sky. Even though the weather forecast was pessimistic we unexpectedly enjoyed the sun. The temperature was about 9C and the air was brisk. From the pass, the way was all downhill. First, we crossed a completely dry valley, full of white rocks and with no vegetation whatsoever. At the end of the valley, we discovered a small emerald pond. The size of the pond is strictly related to the quantity of snow melted in springtime. This year it was modest. Just above the pond, we saw the next Refugee called Antermoia and we gladly relaxed eating our lunch. It took us 3 hours to climb there and the view was worth every minute. The refugee itself was interesting: there is a new owner who completely renovated the place. He installed the solar panels and made the interior looked modern. The staff was friendly and the food was obviously delicious. A wonderful reward for the 3h climb! An hour later we continued our journey. The view towards Sasso Piatto, Val Udai and Val de Dona were fabulous. Crossing kilometres downhill brought us full immersion in the green pastures of the Dolomites. There were very few people who followed our footsteps, therefore, we fully enjoyed the path and the views. The way back via Val Duron was a bit long but it was easy and we arrived at our accommodation fully satisfied. The whole itinerary covered 20km, it took us almost 6 hours to walk it, excluding brakes and lunch. Travel tip: watch the weather forecast carefully and in the case of the sudden change go back to safety as soon as possible. Itinerary day 3: Campitello – Vigo di Fassa (by bus, ticket: 1,80 EUR) – Rifugio Ciampedie 1998 masl (by cableway car, one way ticket: 9EUR) – Rifugio Gardeccia 1950 masl- Rifugio Vajolet 2244 masl – Rifugio Passo Principe 2599 masl- Passo Antermoia 2770 masl – Rafigio Antermoia 2497 masl- Val Duron – Rifugio Micheluzzi – Campitello. Read about day 1 itinerary Ciampedie here. Read about day 2 itinerary Sasso Piatto here.  

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It was the third year in a row when I visit a mountain massif called Sasso Piatto. This is a beautiful part of the Dolomites thus I am not surprised that people tend to go back there, including me. After the first day of our short holiday spent in Ciampac, we enjoyed a light walk in Sasso Piatto. We took a cableway car for a variety of reasons: first, to relax before the third and the hardest day, second, to fully appreciate our location in walking distance from the cableway car, and first to go back to a well-known site and make the walk as easy as possible. A path from Col Rodella to Rifugio Sasso Piatto is one of the most frequented treks in the Dolomites. It is flat, easy and it offers spectacular views, therefore, hundreds of people decide to walk it on daily basis. The weather was not the best one, however, we enjoyed the chill wind and lack of sun. Many other tourists picked up this location even if the views were covered by the clouds. We watched our previous day itinerary from the distance which was a great experience. I’ve finally noticed a magnificent green massif in front of the Costabella chain and it was truly impressive. In less than an hour, we arrived at Rifugio Sasso Piatto to enjoy a hot tea and a great local dessert: strudel. It was full of tourists just as we were told a few days before by phone. Its interior design, however, is beautiful so we still had a great time and after a short break, we left the table for other tourists who kept coming and coming. The part of our itinerary downhill to Val Duron was much less crowded. We first crossed a small mountain hut called Malga del Sasso Piatto that was being repaired the last year. It opened this summer and next to a beautiful mountain restaurant the owner constructed a bread stove. The smell of a fresh bread is for me one of the most beautiful smells in the world, therefore, the view of fresh bread laying there on the wooden table was stunning. The next stage of the trek was full of small marmots, big cows and horned goats. In a total loneliness, we enjoyed the unspoiled nature. We felt light and happy which was exactly what we went after. The way back to the accommodation was easy and relaxing. TRAVEL TIP: if you plan to walk a path in a proximity to any cableway car start your journey as soon as possible, preferably with the very first run (8:30 in our case). The itinerary of day 2: Campitello – Col Rodella 2398 masl (by cableway car, ticket: 11 EUR) – Rifugio Fridrich August 2298 masl – Rifugio Sandro Pertini 2300 masl – Rifugio Sasso Piatto 2300 masl -Malga del Sasso Piatto 2256 masl – Rifugio Micheluzzi 1860 masl – Val Duron – Campitello. Read about day 1 itinerary Ciampac here. Read about day 3 itinerary Antermoia here.  

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For obvious reasons, travelling off season brings you many benefits. Not only the destination is less crowded and cheaper but also it offers you unpredicted weather conditions which make the journey adventurous. I personally prefer off season travels but sometimes, out of a variety of reasons, we are forced to make choices and this time I just had to be in Italy on a particular day at the precise time. As a result, a short holiday in the Dolomites happened in the middle of peak season. Here is a story how I survived peak season in the Dolomites. I spent three days on the dirt path in the high parts of the mountains and brought you marvellous photos from this wonderful UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Accommodation At the beginning of my holiday planning, I was determined to stay only in the mountain huts along the so called Via Alta delle Dolomiti which is a multi-day trekking across the Dolomites. I phoned to a few of the mountain shelters to book my stay only to discover they were all fully booked. Naturally, each mountain hut will accept guests even if they give you only a mattress and a small piece of the floor but you still need to pay for this doubtful ‘comfort’.  The vision of a lonely mattress at the end of the long corridor sounded less exciting than I expected so I thought that I should rethink my holiday plan. Flexibility is good. Fortunately, my husband had a similar impression and together we decided to find an accommodation in one of the villages in Val di Fassa. This time it was Campitello and a wonderful Chalet Marcora, a family run small and comfortable place. A beautiful interior design, high-quality abundant breakfasts and friendly staff made our stay pleasant. From Campitello we had all trekking paths at our fingertips. Day 1: Ciampac We started our first day in nature quite early. It was wonderfully chilly with a temperature of 12C. A glorious sunny day made our wake up an easy task. We left our chalet at 8:15 a.m. and followed the path along the stream towards Fontanazzo. From a crossroads near the wooden bridge, we climbed up to enjoy spectacular views after 1h 30min. The view opened up and we admired Catinaccio massif, Sasso Piatto and Sella Group. We saw them all at the same time which was thrilling. The path followed up, crossed green meadows of the Val de Crepa full of happy cows and brought us up to the pass Pian de Selle at the level of 2185 masl. We had our first break at the pass, looking at the majestic mountain chains in front of our eyes. From the pass, we also saw our target: Rifugio Ciampac located on the magnificent background of high peak Sas de Roca (2618 masl). We went down to the chalet and we had a lovely lunch there in a jolly company of construction workers who were renovating the other two huts: Baita Valeruz and Tobia del Jagher. The owner was charming and the food was great. Out of the window, we could the the Sella Group which was lovely. After lunch, we followed the steep road towards Canazei which in winter transforms into a ski slope. It is so steep that only expert skiers can ski there and watching in the middle of the summer convinced me about it. We continued the downhill trek passing huge lorries that were carrying up construction materials which was a downside of this part of our trek. All in all, we came back to our accommodation happy and tired. TRAVEL TIP: the paths located far from cable railway and funiculars are always less crowded even in peak seasons. The itinerary of day 1: Campitello – Fontanazzo 1395 masl – Val de Crepa – Pian de Selle 2185 masl – Rifugio Ciampac 2170 masl – Canazei – Campitello. Read about day 2: Sasso Piatto. Read aboud day 3: Antermoia.  

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It’s not the first time I had a chance to skiing in the Dolomites but the two weeks I spent in Colmean were truly spectacular. The most beautiful part of this story is the people: Adriano and Maria Rosa. They are the owners of the place we rented and they hosted us like their own family. We felt like at home and this is the reason why we had such a great time. If you consider skiing in the Dolomites their AirBnB is the best place to start. The Snow Storm The day we arrived in Colmean the snowstorm hit. For weeks before our arrival, there was no such violent event this winter year so I guess we can call ourselves lucky. The funny thing was that even twenty kilometres from the village there was no snow whatsoever and it was even raining! No surprises though, that we did not believe in the snow before we approached Passo San Pellegrino. At the altitude of two thousand meters, the rain turned into snow and the storm started. As long as we descended the car could handle it but the moment we started the final ascent it did not. We got blocked by the heavy piles of snow in the middle of a tiny road. It was dark, cold and really wet. We felt drained out and quite desperate. Adriano, the owner, phoned us a couple of times and promised to wait along the way to assist us in the final stretch. We went back for help to the nearest bar. A local guy who worked there mounted the chains but the snowfall was excessive and we lost them straightaway. Again, we went back to the bar and the other guests who had their aperitivo there advised we should take an alternative longer route. I can tell you that we felt much better when the local people offered us their help and support. This is the magic of the true journey: the good and sympathy you experience. Therefore, we drove uphill an alternative route and reached the bridge where Adriano was waiting for us, covered with snow. The car did not make it as the uphill road was steep so we left the it at the parking space, advised by Adriano. We took our luggage and walked the final 300 meters. The warm welcome by Maria Rosa and Adriano rose our spirit. Their wooden house was a true bliss and we felt really well in that dark and wet evening. The snow falling and watched from the warm and cosy room was fantastic! Skiing in the Sun Next morning we watched the landscape covered with deep snow and it was spectacular! All peaks around the valley were white, the trees as well and above this white quilt there was a blue sky. Out of our balcony, the view of the valley was breathtaking. Moreover, the sun melted the ice and snow on the road so we could freely move. An epic journey through the winter landscape began. We drove through Caviola and Falcade with our eyes wide open. What a beauty! The view of the mountains in winter time is one of the most beautiful things in the world! We spent next couple of days skiing in the ski area of San Pellegrino. They are part of Dolomiti Superski. The tracks are always well prepared and surprisingly there were not that many people skiing. We were lucky to have three sunny days in a row. The Locals On Monday evening we went out with the owners: Adriano and Maria Rosa. We had a super tasty pizza and we talked till late. We discovered common passions and delight. They shared stories about the geology of the Dolomites which sparked my interest. They asked a lot of questions about Poland thus we could act as ambassadors of our beautiful country again. We felt amazingly well in the apartment we had. The carefully renovated old barn with a modern touch was comfortable and cosy. Whether is was sitting on the balcony and taking a sunbath or cooking a nice meal it was really cool. Not only the views were spectacular but also the location for all skiers is just brilliant. The white crisp slopes are only twenty minutes away! Following the advice of Adriano we went for an afternoon walk in the valley called Val Venegia. Along the way, we passed a forest where the wood for famous violins are taken from, including Stradivarius. The valley itself is a delight. The view for the mountain chain San Martino di Castrozza is amazing. The deep snow only magnified our admiration. It was also a very easy trail and even in the snow the retired people can take it. I can’t wait to go back in the Dolomites. Whether in the summer or in winter this place is gorgeous!  

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A winter stay in Valpolicella would be incomplete without a few visits in the local restaurants. There is a lot to choose from! Even if the AirBnB house we rented is located in a small village there is a variety of places that serve a high-quality food. Italy is famous for its food and sometimes you might get lost is a variety of names. You might wonder what is the difference between ‘osteria‘, ‘trattoria‘ and ‘restaurant’ thus here is a simple explanation. Osteria The least formal of all places that offer you food in Italy. It sometimes is run by a family and offers you a place at the common table, shared with other guests. The food is always fresh, prepared from the local ingredients and often there is no menu: the owner of a waiter tells you what is served today and you choose from it. It serves wines, often produced by the owners (‘produzione propria‘), brought to the table is carafe rather than a bottle. Recently there is a new trend to make the osterie more attractive by using a modern design or hosting ‘aperitivo‘ in late afternoons. The one I visited here, in Negrar, was called Osteria del Bugiardo and it was fabulous! Trattoria Less formal than a restaurant more formal then osteria. It always serves local food but the main focus is on wines. The food is always simple, the choice is limited and the customers are in major part locals. It has been always an important place for the meetings of the residents and a common space for exchanging the ideas and gossips. Restaurant Obviously, there is a huge variety of the formality here. There are exclusive restaurants that serve a high quality, expensive food but there are also those less expensive and well connected with the area. It is true especially in Italy where many people visit a restaurant with their families, friends and colleagues. It is worth checking with the locals which restaurant is good but if you can’t do it just pass the restaurant in the evening (20:00-21:00) and judge it out of the number of cars parked in front of it. If the restaurant is not in the city centre, next to the famous touristic spots, this strategy works just fine. Especially in the countryside: good restaurants are always full of locals! Bar or pasticceria Pssst! I know that there’s a lot of people who love sweets thus I would strongly encourage you to visit bar or pasticceria in the morning. The best place to start a day in Italy is the one that bakes their sweets in situ, in their backyard. Fresh, warm sweet brioche in the morning will lift your spirit!  

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Venice is one of the most often visited places on earth. The tourists have invaded this tiny island and this trend shows a steady growth. I visited it many times before but last weekend, for the first time ever, I visited in the winter time. I thought that the pouring rain will discourage the tourists and I shall have Venice to myself but I was so wrong! Many tourists, Italians and internationals, visit this place irrespectively the weather conditions. If you ever wanted to know how is winter in Venice and whether it is worth to try, read this post. The literature For me and many other readers, the literature is what attracts us to this particular city. I loved a wonderful piece of prose titled Watermark in English and Fondamenta degli Incurabili in Italian. If you haven’t read this book I strongly encourage you to do so. In my opinion, this is the best book about Venice ever written. Josif Brodsky, the author, Nobel Prize winner, spent in Venice seventeen winters in a row. He always visited the island in the worst possible weather: foggy, rainy and with the high level of water called in Italian aqua alta. Evocative, suggestive and despite the horrible weather conditions the books praises the city of Venice. It’s all about the water – the author is convinced about the importance of this element in our lives. He sees beauty everywhere and last weekend in a pouring rain I saw exactly the same thing. Travel with books I often follow footsteps of my favourite authors and I was excited that I will finally visit Venice in winter. Reading aloud the quotes from Watermark was a truly fascinating experience. I swear I felt the smell of seaweed the moment I stepped into the city and saw the first canal. I was totally amazed how intense the emotions evoked by this book were. I can sincerely say now that I consider Venice one of the most beautiful cities in Italy. In wintertime, of course.  

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This winter is marvellous! I’m spending it in Valpolicella, a region of vineyards. Its location is special: from the west, it confines with Garda Lake and Monte Baldo, a relatively high mountain range. In the south, there is a large plateau with Verona town that is beautifully illuminated by night. The plateau expands into the south to meet the Adriatic Sea. In the east and north, further and higher mountain ranges expand. Therefore, the geology of Valpolicella makes this region very special. I was here before in a summer time thus read this post as the next episode of the same story. The house The house I’m renting through AirBnB is located high in the hills. It’s the first time in my life when I’m living at such high altitude and it changes everything! First of all, the view out of every window is breathtaking. Three different ranges in front of the house shaped in layers make a wonderful view. The highest one – Monte Baldo – is covered with snow and this is a picturesque background of the hills with vineyards. Right in front of the house, there is a large cherry grove. I can’t wait to see it flourish! The wine This is a wine region, no doubts about it. When I’m getting familiar with Valpolicella, either by car or by foot, it is covered with vineyards. The classic wine from here – Valpolicella Classico – consists grapes of five different varieties, therefore, the vineyards differ one from another. Currently, the local farmers spend sunny days on cutting the branches so the vine produces excellent grapes. Along every major and minor road, there are vineyards with large houses and wineries, where you can taste and buy the local wines. The weather As I expected, winter here is wonderful! The first three weeks of my stay here were sunny and dry. Watching the valley above and the peaks above out of my window raise my spirit. I was able to focus on brushing the final version of my book and get on with the process of publishing it. What I absolutely love about living here is the altitude that raises you above the clouds. So basically, in a small town of Negrar just 10km away there is have fog and rain while when you get up here there is a beautiful sun. You can watch the clouds from above and this looks spectacular. The running trails Last but not least, there is a variety of running trails. In fact, I was able to run regularly until yesterday, when a dog of my neighbour bit me! All in all, he only wore out my trousers but it scared me a bit. I am very happy though because of the change in running routine. Instead of a totally plain track, it is very steep here and this gives me an opportunity to practice and train alternative muscles. For the first couple of days it was really hard but after three weeks I got used to it. Feeling proud! The people Everywhere I go people are just fantastic. It is equally true for the people from Valpolicella. Not only the owner of the house is gentle and nice but also people I meet every day here. This looks like I picked up another wonderful location for winter to spend. Not only the weather is great but also the food, wine and people too. The overall experience is very positive so if you ever thought about spending winter in Valpolicella I would strongly recommend it.  

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I’m pretty sure that you’ve heard about Valpolicella at least once in your lifetime. It is the name of a zone full of gentle hills near Verona and it gave a name to the Valpolicella wine that people appreciate around the world. I am not a wine expert but since I lived in Italy I tasted a variety of white and red wines. I participated in a wine tasting before and I am probably an average wine fan: love it with whole my heart. When we left the Dolomites, we decided to expand our holiday and stay for a little bit longer in Italy. Verona and Valpolicella seemed to be just perfect. Last week, we participated in two wine tasting and here is my review, so you could pick up your own way. Valpolicella Valpolicella Classico is made from five grape varieties: Rondinella, Corvina, Corvinione, Oseleta and Molinara. For an amateur, it is pretty hard to distinguish the grapes seen on the grapevines but to the experts, this is a piece of cake. The location of Valpolicella is stunning and just perfect for wine cultivation. From the top of the hills on a sunny day, you can see the Adriatic Sea. The quality of the soil is outstanding as it is of a volcanic origin. Local microclimate brings a fresh breeze from the sea and from the nearby lake Garda. The cantina here is well ventilated which makes the drying process of grapes possible. Out of the variety of grapes grown in Valpolicella a series of red wines are produced: Valpolicella Classico, famous Amarone, sweet Recioto and Ripasso. Wine Tasting in Cantina Fratelli Vogadori Although we all prefer white wines, we could not miss the opportunity of wine tasting in Valpolicella. In a sunny afternoon, we started our tasting in a cantina called Fratelli Vogadori. We entered the building, crossed a cellar following the arrows and were seated at the table with five bottles or red wine. One of the owners was our guide. We got a list of wines that we should taste, bread with olive oil and a spittoon. One after another, the red wine filled our glasses and through the story told by one of the owners we did our best to taste vanilla, cherry, chocolate, and tobacco. Cherry was the easiest to spot. One of the wines we tasted was especially wonderful: it smelled fresh and fruity and after we tasted it, our mouths were full of vanilla. An amazing experience that involved not only our senses of taste and smell but also our memories. Our guide explained that what we sense in a wine depends on our personal experience and memories. We bought a few bottles of wine there and went back home completely satisfied. But this was not over. Next day we went to a different place and the wine tasting there was a totally different one. Wine Tasting in Tenuta Santa Maria Valverde After the first wine tasting in Valpolicella we expected a similar thing but we were completely wrong. This time, we got caught by the owners full of passion, joy and proud. We booked a wine tasting combined with lunch and arrived at noon, in a very hot day. The old buildings and well-ventilated garden welcomed us with desired fresh breeze. Ilaria and Nicola, a couple who owns the place, took us directly for a guided tour around their property. We started from a huge room dedicated to grapes drying process. All grapes, collected manually, are stored for at least 100 days from November to mid-February, depending on the weather and harvest. The room was empty but watching the wooden boxes we could imagine how hard it is to keep them safe from mold until they are ready for a fermentation process. Ilaria explained that each variety of grapes used in Valpolicella wine gives a different taste. Rondinella tastes like plums, Corvina and Corvinone like cherries, Molinara like green pepper, and Oseleta like mulberries. From the drying room, we went down to the cellar, where the smell of mold was overwhelming. Old wooden barrels and modern metal ones were laying there, working hard to produce the excellent wine. Ilaria, a charming woman who laughed a lot, explained the whole process of wine making, including all difficulties, obstacles, and unexpected events. Then, Nicola came and are told us a story of the family. His family has been making wine for the last three hundred years! The expertise in the matter is the air they breathe from the moment they were born. Fascinating. We finally got seated under the white umbrella in a tranquil green garden. The silence was only intermittent by the sound of cicada and gently running water. What a relaxing place! Nicola brought us the local cheese and sausages and the feast began. The taste of wines along with the local specialities was amazing but the final was mind blowing. To fully enjoy the last wine, Nicola brought a block of dark chocolate. It is impossible to describe how incredible it tasted. The whole experience was just fantastic! It took us more than three hours and we had to run before Ilaria showed us the grounds, which was a shame. The owners told us that we could stay with them until the evening and I think that next time I will dedicate the whole day to stay in this marvellous place. Which wine tasting to choose? These two wine tasting experiences were picked up randomly. I had no previous contact with any of these places nor asked for suggestions to any of my friends. Obviously, each of these places has their own way of showing the excellency of the Valpolicella wines. It is up to you, what you prefer. I’d say that I should probably go back to Santa Maria Valverde because of the whole experience. I think that I tasted not only the wine there but most of all, what this region and the family business is all about. I deeply appreciate the...

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Encouraged by the previous adventure in Mount Civetta, we decided to continue our journey and stay overnight in another refugee. We had one day off for a bad weather and charming meeting with friends who came to visit us. It left time to plan another adventure. Soon, we decided to explore the part of the Dolomites called Sasso Piatto and Sasso Lungo. A few years ago we visited this massif climbing it from the west and Val Duron but this time we scheduled it differently. The booking As this was the peak of the season we decided to book a bed in the refugee in advance. I would like to encourage you to do the very same thing. Obviously, the refugee should always host you even if they give you only a floor to sleep on but we were a group of five and didn’t want to risk. When we called, a lady told us there are five posts left and we gladly booked them. The traffic Next day, in the early morning, we took the car and drove from our tranquil valley called Valle del Biois, to Passo Sella. This was not a long way but with the heavy traffic in Val di Fassa, it took us as long as two hours to arrive! That’s a lot of time! So again, you should pick up off season months, when you have a choice. We found parking slot and waited in a line for an old fashion cableway car from Passo Sella to Rifugio Demetz, at 2685 masl. The weather was chilly and sunny. The hike Along the crowd, we followed the path down. The panorama was amazing. This particular part of the massif is all about rocks and sand. If you enjoy a very rough and unforgiving terrain, Sasso Piatto should be your next destination. A very interesting detail of this trek is that it starts downhill. The beginning was rough mainly because of the crowds. There were people of all abilities and skills, including small children who needed extra care from their parents. Soon, the crowd turned into a line. After half an hour, though, the path was less crowded and in about 45 minutes we arrived in the refugee called Vicenza, at 2256 masl. Luckily, we got a table inside and had a quick lunch. The whole facility, including the terrace, was full of people. Further north We continued our hike and followed the path downhill. It turned west and soon we started to walk around the west part of the massif. The path leads further through a picturesque meadows full of brown-and-white cows, who looked totally happy. Climbing up, we arrived at a large plateau with a lovely view towards Alpi di Siusi. This was a perfect place for a short break before the final stage of out trek. The next part of our walk was one of the most beautiful paths in the Dolomites, and at the same time, one of the the easiest one. Green hills, grey rocks, and small streams, all shined in a mild sun, making the walk carefree and relaxing. Rifugio Sasso Piatto After three hours in total, we arrived in the refugee. Rifugio Sasso Piatto, at 2301 masl, is one of the most beautiful ones that I have ever slept in. It is modern, well kept and very well organised. We got the key to our room quite quickly and were guided to a shoe room. We got our crocs and followed to the rooms. Wooden floor, large windows, new beds and clean bathrooms welcomed us. Also, the views from a comfortable common room were magnificent. This refugee is highly recommended for the night, especially to someone who has never done it before. Back home After a delicious dinner, we had a peaceful night and woke up relaxed. We had a short breakfast and started our return home. Along the way from Rifugio Sasso Piatto to Passo Sella, there are as many as three other refugees. First, a small wooden hut called Sandro Pertini, at 2300 masl. Last time we were there off season it was closed, but this time, we finally entered and had a warm tea. The weather was chilly so it was most appreciated. This part of the walk was pleasant due to the absence of other tourists. The silence was overwhelming. We could fully enjoy and appreciate the luxury of solitude that only the high mountains can give. After half an hour, we arrived in another refugee called Rifugio Friedrich-August 2398 masl. Large building seen from the distance welcomed us with the incredible smell of freshly baked sweets. Our Italian friends could not resist the smell and ate one bombolone each. The last half hour was a light walk down to Passo Sella where a luxury hotel opens its door to all. It is called Passo Sella Resort (2180 masl). The trekking around Sasso Lungo is doable in one day. We decided to split the hike in two days to get a profound experience of the Dolomites. I must say, it was truly enjoyable. A rich experience that I would recommend to anyone, including the beginners.  

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Do you hike? Are you an outdoor activities lover? Have you ever spent a night in a mountain hut or a refugee? If you are a camping type of person you probably did but to some people, this might look like an adventure. In fact, two of our Italian friends have never done it before and so this year’s plan was to expand the mountain adventure and include at least one night slept in a mountain hut. Here is how we did and how you can do this too, in the Italian Dolomites. I love the Dolomites in every season. These large mountain chains in the north of Italy provide memorable holidays, breathtaking views and outstanding level of services to all nature lovers. I tend to go back there at least once a year and I never get tired of its views. In major part, I spent time in Val di Fassa, which is the most developed part of the mountains but this year it all went differently. It was five of us and we explored a totally new area: Monte Civetta. Here is a review of a two-day hike we did in the second week of August. Starting point We stayed in an apartment in Caviola, a small village near Falcade. Although this is not that far from Val di Fassa, these two places are located in different Italian regions: Val di Fassa is a part of autonomous region Trento-Alto Adige, while Falcade makes part of Veneto. This might look only as an administrative detail but you can spot the difference in a minute. Val di Fassa, through its extensive international promotion and excellent ski facilities, earned a title of one of the best places for skiing in the world. For years, it has gathered thousands of skiers and it increased its income quite successfully. Being an autonomous region Trento-Alto Adige keeps the major part of this income while Veneto does not. Luckily, the Dolomites are for everyone. If you are more into social life and high standard services you will find Val di Fassa appealing. If you prefer tranquillity and contact with local people you should stay in Falcade, Caviola or Alleghe. Both areas are just fine if you know your preferences. Way up In the early morning, we took a cableway car from a lake town Alleghe called Ski Civetta. At about 9:00 we started our walk up. The first part of the path is more like a walk in the park. After 15 minutes we arrived in a small mountain hut where sheep and goats are held. The milk is used to produce delicious cheese that we bought on our way back. From the hut, there was a one hour walk up to the refugee called Rifugio Coldai, at 2315 masl. It is located in a beautiful place, surrounded by high grey rocks and looking at a very weird peak called Pelmo (3168 masl), that grows out of nowhere. We ate a strudel in the refugee that was slowly filling up with the tourists. The lake We continued our way up for a while and after less than a quarter we saw a beautiful small lake. We went down and enjoyed the panorama of the town Alleghe way down and high white rocks mirrored in its surface. The lake was a busy place. To some tourists, this is an arrival point and so the meadows near the lake were full of picknick baskets, colorful blankets, and families with the kids. A spectacular place for a picknick, indeed. The final part Our target was Rifugio Tissi, though, at the altitude of 2250 masl. We saw it way before arrival! There was still more than one hour climb when we spotted it for the first time. It seemed very small and distant but smartly located. There were two different paths to take: one just below the rock wall and the second one which leads first down and then up. We picked up the second one and in the heat of the day we climbed right to the refugee. It did not come easy. For me and my Polish companions, the heat was unbearable. This hour climb might seem not much but, considering the circumstance, this was a challenge. The Tissi Refugee The whole hike took us around three hours. The final part was especially hard as it leads up and in the heat of the day it was not really pleasant, however, we got our reward. On a blue sky, there was the whole chain of the rocky peaks seen from the window of our room and the terrace of the refugee. The building itself is old and used by endless generations of mountain trekkers. The quality of services was not as we expected. The bathroom was small and crowded but it was the shower that beat everything. The shower hung just above the squat toilet, sometimes called the Turkish or Indian toilet. Believe me, this was not the most pleasant shower I’ve had. The sunset The real pleasure of sleeping in a refugee is the sunset. Along the unexpected crowd of other tourists, we climbed a few meters up and enjoyed the view. On the one side, there was a high wall of the Civetta peak that turned into a mild rose colour. It is sometimes called “the wall of all walls” due to its difficulty and fame among the alpinists. The setting sun made all the frayed edges of the rocks visible. The mountain seemed like it was a living thing. The colours exploded into a vivid orange to fade slowly after the sun set. The real nature show available only to those who stay up there for the night. We slept in a room with 8 bunks and this was one of the downsides of our stay in Tissi. The other tourists did not bother to take a shower and made a horrible noise snoring loudly. This was definitely not the best night ever but we survived it. At 5:00 a.m. we...

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