This is not a politically engaged post. I will not attempt to take sides regarding this conflict nor will I discuss the possible faults of those  involved. I will share, however, something that is important to me. This is my review of the recently published book by Dervla Murphy “Between River and Sea“,  focused on the Middle East conflict. It’s just a book It’s just a book – I thought when I took it in my hand. There is no way it concerns me. I felt I was far removed from the Middle East and I have never visited any of the countries involved in the conflict nor have I had an intention to, but I started reading and quite quickly realized how wrong I was. Dervla Murphy is a distinguished travel writer, an icon of independent traveling. Her life is an endless inspiration to all cyclists and serious travelers. In her late seventies and early eighties, she ventured into a difficult territory – a journey to Palestine and Israel.  “Between River and Sea” is her reflection on the conflict and although she has always been politically active in a variety of situations none of her previous books is as sharp, clear and on the edge of a political advocacy. Objectivity This post is not politically engaged, but Dervla’s book is. She states right from the very beginning that her heart is with the suffering Palestinians and against Zionism of any form. It might seem controversial to state your personal political views on the issue on the first page of the book, but I think this was wise – for a variety of reasons. Sooner or later the reader realizes the author’s views and if not revealed before, this can result in a loss of trust.  A declaration of belief frames the story and leaves no space for the unsaid.  People often state that they appreciate objectivity, but I sometimes find it hypocritical. Rarely, if at all, do authors and journalists make the effort to look at an issue from a variety of perspectives and I see no reason why people should avoid stating their opinions clearly. So don’t look for objectivity in Dervla’s book because you will not find it. Reality This book was hard to read and very hard to finish. It was heavy, deeply disturbing, sometimes cruel and very literal in the descriptions of harassment.  Page after page the author shows the misery of people who live in this region and what I found most difficult to deal with was their lack of hope for the future. The reality of war is horrible and we all know this, the population suffers, decade after decade. The hate grows and is passed from one generation to another.  Just like every other war the conflict between Israel and Palestine turns ordinary people into orphans, widows, widowers, and single parents. I don’t believe there is one person in the Middle East who is not affected by the loss of a relative or a friend. Living in fear destroys a healthy personality and turns children into a generation with no hope. What is this have to do with me? If you read this book it will hit you. Even if you thought you were well removed from this conflict, after reading this book you will find yourself in the middle of it. It’s because the cruelty of war leaves no one indifferent. If  you read about cruelty towards children you will become angry. If  you know about injustice, it can not be ignored. And, most of all, because the population of both Palestine and Israel are deeply marked with mutual mistrust, they need somebody from the outside to help them understand the situation. And to see hope where there is none. Although I consider this book very important I don’t think it is helpful. Don’t get me wrong. There was no way Dervla Murphy could have written this book differently. She did what she’s always done: meeting people, staying with them for a couple of days, asking difficult questions, and sympathizing with those affected most by poverty. When you are reading this book you get a feeling that the author becomes one of them, and while this is natural it results in seeing this life through their eyes only which can narrow the reader’s perspective.  It is beneficial for the book, but it does not get us any closer to the peace.  This book is excellent in showing the misery and the suffering of all residents of this land of fire. It should leave you uneasy.  

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This post is all about beautiful pictures. I’ve recently realized how many of them are on my disc and I never show them to the world. So the competition by Thomas Cook with excellent judges encouraged me to look for 4 really nice pictures showing 4 elements: earth, air, water and fire. I hope you’ll like the ones I chosen. Earth Earth is stable. We often take its stability for granted. I did too, until the earthquake happened. I experienced a moderate earthquake while I was living in Italy and it was a very scary event. Many of the factories, churches and houses in the area collapsed in just 45 seconds. The scale of damage showed my how powerful earth is. And I will never forget how frighten I was. And at the same time how wonderful the support of the local community was. Air Breathing deeply in early morning is one of the most refreshing things I know. Depending where you are it is either sweet, chilly, humid or warm. I personally appreciate the chilly north wind in Lapland and this picture shows one of the valleys far north at 5:00 a.m. The silence was thrilling and watching the sunrise over the Alesjaure lake was one of the most tranquil moments I have ever experienced.   Water This was the easiest one as I have hundreds of pictures made either in water or looking at water. It looks like I really enjoy swimming and sailing. Ah, and white water rafting too. This picture I selected shows many things. First, how vast any sea  is. Second, the reflection created by low tide shows that nature, when treated with respect is an amazing way to look deep down into yourself. Just like a mirror. And lastly, changing tides show its character: changeability and consistency. It also reminded me a book ‘Through the looking-glass’ by Lewis Carroll. It was so unreal I could just walk through, to the other side of the mirror, like Alice. Fire I have never experienced the power of fire element. But fire brings to my mind warm and sun so here is the picture I selected: a sand dune in New Zealand Farewell Spit. It is high, sandy and when I visited this part of the world it was really warm. I think this picture somehow combines air and fire as the strong west winds shape the dunes just as they wish. Beautiful view! I also nominate my friends to share their pictures: Susan, Shane, Jeff, Ali and Lanora.  

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This was an awesome conclusion of my trekking spring: a one day hike in the German Alps with my friend. Needless to say the weather was marvelous, however, not everything went as smoothly as we planed. The start was pretty comfortable with excellent German facilities namely: parking lot WITH coins exchange (!) and ATM (!) on site! This is only possible in Germany, as far as I’m concerned. Mythical German organization appeared in its whole glory. The basic idea was to have a look at the Königssee (ang. King’s Lake) from high altitude and to do that we had a plan to go up in a cable railway first and climb a nearby summit called Schneibstein (2276 masl) afterwards. The plan was simple, we set up in the early morning and after a 2h drive from Munich we met the first obstacle: a lady at the cash desk of Jennerbahn (a cable railway). Not that I am prejudiced towards ladies working in such facilities but this time it was really classic! She refused to sell us a one way ticket up saying that the path towards  Schneibstein and Carl-von-Stahl hut was impossible to cross. We could only buy a half way ticket and we did so. And that was the first thing that made our day and the route really really long. No worries, though. Starting from the middle of the track we enjoyed a spring weather: +18C, sun and green grass all over the place. The sun was shining for the rest of the day but green grass became covered with snow really soon. So for almost 2 hours we’d been walking through Strubalm valley trudging up in deep snow, falling down up to our waists from time to time. If you start to laugh every time you fell you quickly become pretty tired so not only the trail was long but also considerably engaging. There should be a mountain hut waiting up there after about 2h walk but it was closed. Bad luck again but we were in such a good mood it didn’t make any difference. Instead of an open hut we met a local trekker who looked like a professional sherpa (I swear he did!) and he told us about another mountain hut called Carl-von-Stahl (1736 masl) located just at the border with Austria. 5 minutes walk. Fine. Before we arrived to this hut we sat for a while in front of the closed one that I can’t remember the name of and watched skiers who were skiing down the Schneibstein with amazing speed (so jealous!). It was high enough to enjoy amazing view towards west with the majestic Watzmann massif as background. After a short walk we reached a saddle where  Carl-von-Stahl hut was located. The view on the Austrian part of the Alps and Schneibstein was awesome. But by the time we got to the hut we knew we won’t be able to climb it. Obviously trekking without any summit reached feels somehow incomplete so after a short discussion we thought it might be a good idea to climb at least Jenner summit (1.874 masl). Crossing the ski piste we safely arrived to the cable railway (I wonder what a lady from the cash desk would say if she knew we crossed it!) and went directly to the peak. And it was so beautiful! The lake was there and although it was shadowed by the Watzmann range it was still amazingly appealing. Just as everyone says: reaching the summit is only a half way down so after a while we had to get going. This was fast. And tough at the same time. We picked up alternative route down and soon got to cross the snowy fields sinking up again. At some point we would just running down like mad through these fields until we reached the green grass again. The deep winter in Strubalm valley we crossed that morning was a fairy tale like place but it was also by far the longest route to the Schneibstein and because of our lost battle with a lady in Jennerbahn we had no chances to reach it. I guess we traded the achievements for the beauty this time. And I am quite happy about it. We were both smiling when we finally reached the car left in Schönau am Königssee and we are pretty determined to cross the mythical 2200 masl next time. Itinerary MUNICH – KONIGSSEE (603 masl) – STRUBALM – JENNER KONIGSBERGALM – CARL VON STAHL HUT (1736 masl) – JENNER (1.874 masl) – HOCHBAHNWEG – RABENWAND – KONIGSSEE (603 masl) – MUNICH  

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It all went surprisingly different! My travel plans, I mean. This is an excellent example of how changing circumstances affects travels in a positive way. We usually consider changing plans as something negative, that ruined our schedule but here is my story that show dreams can come true even if in a twisted way. First, I thought I’ll be in Lapland this autumn. As always. But I’m not. The reason why is related to my other dream of visiting Sweden and the King’s Trail in winter (What’s King’s Trail?). As the trip is long and bit expensive I can’t visit Sweden twice a year therefore a decision was made. I decided to postpone my lappish trip until May 2014 when, hopefully, I’ll take a night train from Stockholm to Kiruna again and ski from Nikkaluokta to Abisko. So far no bad news. And that’s how it goes because even my travels planned for the second term of 2013 are very different from what I planned they are far more exciting at the same time! No harm was made. I knew in advance that I’ll visit Ireland again from the moment I registered to attend a Tbex conference. But there is a surprise connected with this event as well. I applied and got accepted to one of the post conference trips. And guess what! I’m going to visit another small island called Inishnee (population 28 sounds already fascinating) near Galway! I have never thought I’ll visit Galway the same year twice but here we are. The trip called Wild Atlantic West Coast includes a half day trip to Inishnee plus visit to Connemara that I hadn’t have an opportunity to visit the last time. Thus, what else? Oh yes, I thought I’ll walk the Way of St. James this autumn. I was SO sure I’ll walk it this year! I know that at some point I will, however not this autumn, and that’s quite certain. Why? Because I bought a plane ticket to New Zealand! What a surprise! New Zealand was always one of my dream destinations but this is SO far away I thought I need much more time to decide, organize, book and buy than 3 days! This was sort of impulse: I was checking RTW tickets and discovered amazing offer of New Zealand Airlines that I couldn’t resist. So, this November I’ll fly from London to Shanghai, further to Auckland and finally to Christchurch. And back, of course. It looks like an amazing autumn to me. Most of all, I am happy that I’ll spend rainy European November in a place where spring begins! I’m thrilled with this idea and very happy that I’ll bring a totally new strand to my blog: New Zealand! Off to Dublin tomorrow and my first Tbex conference. I’ll publish the first post from my trip just when I get back! Stay tuned!  

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Way of St. James is a dream destination for many people. I was not one of them. This was never my dream. I can’t say that I have always dreamt about it, however, the desire to walk it has grown for some time and I think that I’ll walk it one day. Inspiration to travel comes from many sources and sometimes I’m surprised how information about a place or activity get through. This is much simpler story here: two of my close friends walked the Way of St. James recently. Their stories, pictures and memories shared with me were inspiring enough to come to a decision. I’ll walk Way of St. James some day, but first let me tell you the story how the Way of St. James became my dream destination. The inspiration Last November I was having a delicious dinner with one of my friends. He has just returned from the Way of St. James and he still had these sparkling eyes while telling his story. I simply love such conversations as it gives amazing boost to my imagination. He showed me like thousand photos made on his way to Santiago with endless horizon full of gentle hills and wineries, small bridges, little churches and traditional spanish houses. I got bewitched with his story but that was not the moment I decided to walk the Way. In January I browsed through Vimeo site and one of the first movies found was on the Way of St. James. I paste here a link so you could have a look at it. I found it profoundly inspiring. The braking point in my thinking about the Way came later in spring. A friend of mine made an ambitious project to go to Spain and walk the Way, or better say to ride it. He made like 750km on his bike. I’m not a big fan of bicycle so there was no point to join him, however, after his return we met and he told me a fascinating story on how it was. His pictures and stories or maybe the way he was telling about it got to me and I knew this very moment I need to go there. The Aran Islands Yes, even my recent trip to Ireland brought some inspiration to walk the Way. I told the story in details here so no need to repeat it. The movie Last week I saw a movie The Way directed by Emilio Estevez, starring Martin Sheen. Now, that was a surprising confrontation of my friends’ stories and a vision of the director. I recognized some filming location from pictures and enjoyed watching it very much. If you have ever thought about walking the Way of St. James you should watch this movie first. Not spoiling the end of this movie let me just say that the leading actor of this movie goes through a profound transformation on many levels of his inner life. My expectation towards the Way would be much modest but I still believe that walking any trail on foot creates a unique opportunity to reshape the self. Why? The overall idea of a walk with one backpack, free from a phone and computer is rather catchy. Everything turns upside down when you hit the road. The freedom of relying on myself is one of the best thing while travelling. Meeting people from all over the world and participating in a tradition of a thousand years old makes it really special. Mostly, however, the time spent on the way gives you an opportunity to miss your everyday life. I’ve got already the shell of St. James found on a beach so I consider the first step in the preparation was made. I think that having fascinating and inspirational people around is a blessing. The other’s people passions not only bring news about unknown places but also makes me to believe I can go there. And bring my own story about a place to share it with them later on. Can’t wait to start my journey. Credits: The pictures published in this gallery is a courtesy of my friend who agreed to share it with you. Enjoy watching it and start planning your journey. And get some inspiring people around you. This may change your life. All photos were taken along the Camino del Norte.  

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You are RIGHT! I have started organizing a new trip: this May I will go to the Aran Island. There are many reasons why I picked up this particular location, one of which is the journey of Nicolas Bouvier to this island in the early 80s. I am thrilled to visit- for the first time- the place where Nicolas Bouvier was writing one of his books titled: Journal d’Aran et d’autres lieux. As I decided to go there few months ago I’m constantly thinking about it, and most of all, about my principal motivation. I simply try to answer myself WHY do I wish to go to the Aran Island. Every week I find alternative answers and my anxiety is growing slowly. I’m pretty sure that I’ll have much more to say about this trip AFTER my return in mid May, however, I thought to use this opportunity to focus on the technical aspects of travels in general. Where to begin? When planning a new trip you need to consider your destination. The way I did is slightly more expensive as I had an idea of my dream destination FIRST, and checked the travel options LATER. In this case I was determined to visit THESE islands and there was no other option. If you are less determined and more flexible the choices you have are almost unlimited. Start with the cheap flights option and check what are the most popular travel destinations from the nearest airport. This might already give you a nice bunch of interesting places to visit. And also, you get this amazing emotion of being surprised for free. If you are as determined as I was check some alternatives and do not limit the flight search to the nearest airport. It might be much cheaper to travel from a nearby city than from the nearest airport which is also true for the destination city. In my case I searched all of the Irish airports as the island is relatively small and large cities are well connected. Eventually, I will arrive to Dublin and will continue my trip to Galway by bus. The plane ticket People usually try to find the cheapest option available, often neglecting unfavorable flight time. At least in the case of the European flights this is not always true. Rather, the day of the week is what matters. Flights tend to be cheaper in the middle of the week, peaking up on the weekends, but it varies across airports and airlines. What you need to remember about is that buying a very early or very late flight often forces you to pay for an overnight stay in a hotel, as public transportation might not always operate in extreme hours. If you are adventurous and you don’t mind spending night on the airport that’s fine. It happened to me once and fortunately this was a Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam (I will reveal the details of this adventure later on this blog). What’s next? If you bought a plane ticket and made sure that you’re able to reach final destination or at least one of its intermediate stops check the accommodation. I usually do it at the same time of the plane ticket purchase, just to make sure that the dates I picked up are not particularly crowded and the price for a hotel is not exaggerated. In the case of the Aran Island this was particularly important as the main island is really small and the accommodation options are limited. I wrote couple of emails with a request for information and availability. Not surprisingly one of the hotels was fully booked more than 2 months in advance. Oh yes, this is the real island that I am going to, therefore I had to check the timetable of the ferry. As you might guess it goes only 3 times a day which makes it a bit difficult to coordinate with the bus from Dublin. I hope to buy a ticket for this ferry tonight. Try to imagine the basic activities, including your favorite sports, and the renting options. While in some places it might be very attractive it sometimes is better to bring the equipment with you. This time I had to rely on the local bikes rental office as my intention is to get around by bike and flying with my own bike was not an option.   To make sure that I took all necessary things I usually write everything down in my Moleskine notepad and Moleskine calendar. This is also a good way to check the dates and make sure that there are no holes in your plan. It might happen that you buy a plane ticket and then you continue your journey by bus and you suddenly discover that the bus ticket is for the next day. This is not a pleasant thing to discover, however, it’s better this way. Even if you find your mistake while still being at home is gives you a chance to reschedule your trip, rebook the bus ride or whatever needed. If you find out after landing in unknown place in late evening you might be very surprised and it won’t be a nice surprise. Right. A month before my trip that’s pretty much everything. I am looking forward this trip anxiously. I have already some spectacular short movies and breathtaking photos in my head and please, keep your fingers crossed for a good weather. What should you remember about? check alternative airports check availability of public transportation in early/late hours check the local and national holiday to avoid peak seasons (unless you wish to participate in some local/national feasts) check the schedule of your trip and dates printed on your tickets  

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This is the first post about my dream destinations so let me say it clear: I have never been to Japan before. Although I had been studying Japanese language and culture I have never visited this fascinating country. Why Japan? Because of Nicolas Bouvier, of course! (for those who had not read my previous posts this is an author of The Way of the World). This famous Swiss writer and photographer went to Japan couple of times in the late fifties and sixties of the twentieth century and he had been living there with his wife and two sons. His careful and precise study of this exotic country blew my mind. This author is a true genius: in just few words he is able to elicit impressions of a place that does not exist anymore. I got completely lost in his prose so my first choice of a dream journey would be Japan. I am realist and I know that it is impossible for a European to see Japan in two weeks. I am not looking for typically associated with Japan collective restlessness, neither hi-tech gadgets. Therefore, if I had a choice I would follow the footsteps of Nicolas Bouvier. I would spend my time mainly in Kyoto and surrounding. On my list of places to visit would be Shinju-an Shrine, Daitokuji Shrine, Iwashimizu Hachiman-gū Shrine and – of course!- Ryōan-ji garden. I would love to walk at least a short part of the route between two Kumano shrines (Kumano Sankeimichi). As I would like to make my journey special I would pick the date carefully. This year it would be the beginning of April so I could marvel the Cherry Blossom festival. It would be  spectacular! I saw amazing pictures of valleys, hills and gardens full of cherry trees and this is one of the most beautiful views in the world. Truly epic, I would say. The second part of my journey that Nicolas Bouvier never did would be a trekking in the region of Fuji Five Lakes. April is considered dangerous in terms of climbing the volcano so I would prefer to contemplate the peak from the distance rather than climb it. The most exciting place to see Mount Fuji from the distance would be probably Chureito Pagoda. With the cherry trees blossoming all over the area it would be a fantastic place to be. Japan is considered rather expensive in terms of transportation, restaurants and accommodation, therefore, I would imagine that I need to plan my trip in advance using  low cost airlines and booking companies to cut the costs down. I would think about this journey as a trekker adventure rather than snobbish visit to the renown places. Regarding best restaurants to eat traditional Japanese food I would follow advice of some experience bloggers who has visited Japan and shared their opinions and views. I would also plan visits on site clustering them by location, so I would spend money only for a return ticket. I would visit all places in walking distance one day to continue the journey the day after. “If I was asked to write down a list of things that are pleasant or unpleasant my main criteria would be emptiness and fullness”. My journey to Japan would be inspired by the quote of Nicolas Bouvier, which in Japan should become filled up with meaning.    

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